National Geographic Traveller UK 10.2019

(Sean Pound) #1

A


constellation of some 20,000 islands fan out like the Milky
Way from Finland’s southwestern shores — some simple
rocky skerries, others topped with twisted pines. This largely
Swedish-speaking island chain rising from the Baltic Sea is one of the
world’s largest archipelagos. Its wind-beaten shores are green beacons
of the quiet life, ofering lung-cleansing air and shelter for seabirds.
Explore the loating greenway following the 155-mile Archipelago
Trail — a laid-back loop of roads and free public ferries — to take
in sleepy red boathouses, forested islands and sheltered coves. It’s
a place where terns and swallows zip by, traditional Finnish smoke
saunas abound and, in summer, roadsides are carpeted with wild
strawberries and lingonberries.
Turku, Finland’s oldest city and the former capital, is the gateway to
it all, divided by the linden-lined River Aura into ‘this side’ (older) and
‘the other side’ (newer). It’s a city undergoing a colourful renaissance
led by a string of openings: the city’s irst rootop bar; a brand new
funicular; and even a prison-turned-hipster-paradise housing a
microbrewery, bakery and cofee roastery. And with new direct lights
operating from Luton, it’s now much easier to touch down in Turku.

ABOVE: Wooden
cottage and sauna,
Finnish archipelago
RIGHT: Kakola
Brewing Company

TURKU


Weekender


The ultimate island-hopping destination, Finland’s 155-mile Archipelago
Trail is a place of rocky skerries and forested islets, where eco-retreats,
Nordic cuisine and saunas abound — and the gateway to it all is buzzing
Turku, the former capital city. Words: Stephanie Cavagnaro

54 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

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