National Geographic Traveller UK 10.2019

DRINK UP

Turku’s

best bars

FOR LOFTY REVELRIES

WALO ROOFTOP BAR: The

city’s irst rooftop bar

opened this summer atop

Hotel Wiklund. Turn up for

stunning sunset views over

the city, and a selection of

organic wines, bubbly and

mocktails like raspberry

lemonade. ralaamo.i

FOR BEACH VIBES

SURF SHACK: This

summertime pop-up is a

local haunt, open until 02.00

on weekends. There’s an al

fresco seating area, DJs pop

by to spin decks and the

menu offers a winning combo

of ice cream and cocktails.

surfshackturku.business.site

FOR HOPPY HANGOUTS

KOULU: Exam papers are

swapped for pints at this

brewery-cum-restaurant set

within a neo-renaissance

ex-school building. In the

summer, a buzzy beer garden

grill sizzles with pork ribs

and slow cooked brisket.

panimoravintolakoulu.i/en

MORNING

Rent a car for the ultimate Finnish

road trip: the Archipelago Trail.

On the drive towards Nagu, stop

of at Art Bank gallery in Pargas

to meet eccentric owner Ted

Wallin. “I’m the only recognised

reincarnation of Salvador Dalí

— and I didn’t choose him. He

chose me,” he announces. The

gallery’s rooms are packed with

surrealist paraphernalia: a gold

leaf-covered loor light, a lip sofa,

anthropomorphic drawers and

melting clocks. Ted also hosts a

splash-out €3,000 (£2,700) Privat

Dalí dinner for 10 — the setting is

baroque-luxury with spiral twisted

table legs and gold ribbon-lined

chairs, while food and drinks are

straight out of Dalí’s cookbook.

AFTERNOON

Stop of at Sattmark Kafe &

Saka for a seasonal spread. An

18th-century crot, it houses a

boutique restaurant and shop

selling such edible souvenirs as

white chocolate with bilberries,

local apple juice and salty

liquorice. Take a seat in the sunny

courtyard for a ish feast: egg

mousse with herring and pickled

onions, cold-smoked salmon

and crab-marinated herring, all

scooped up with archipelago

bread and new potatoes. Save

room for cofee and knock-your-

socks-of cinnamon buns that are

the perfect combination of lufy

and sweet. Hidden in the woods

beyond is a collection of eco-

lodges made from clay and straw.

EVENING

Head west to Nagu Marina, from

which you can either drive a

further two hours to Houtskär or

go VIP aboard a private charter

boat. Scenery rips past: birch-,

pine- and spruce-covered islands;

seabirds sailing across blue

skies; and chilli-red boathouses

providing a pop of colour against

the greenscape. Dock at Hyppeis

Värdshus, a small B&B run by

husband-and-wife team Sam and

Outi. Dine on the likes of smoked

lamb, local potatoes with dill sour

cream and the freshest ish at the

unfussy restaurant, then retire to

your room; most ofer sea views

and come decked out with striped

baby-blue wallpaper, patterned

armchairs and Finnish books.

DAY TWO INTO THE ARCHIPELAGO

Kaskis
ABOVE:
Frukt Coffee
Roasters
IMAGE: ALEKS TALVE

October 2019 57

WEEKENDER