LEFT: Cyclist on the
Archipelago TrailMORE INFO
Turku Market Hall.
kauppahalli.i/en
Aboa Vetus & Ars Nova.
aboavetusarsnova.i/en
Låna Boats. lanaturku.i
Kakola Brewing Company.
kakolabrewing.com
Kakolanruusu.
kakolanruusu.i/en
Art Bank gallery. artbank.i
Sattmark Kaffe & Safka.
sattmark.i/briely-in-english
Hyppeis Värdshus.
hotelhyppeis.i/en
Köpmans Café & Restaurant.
kopmans.i/en
Kaskis. kaskis.i/enHOW TO DO IT
Wizz Air has a new thrice-
weekly nonstop light from
Luton to Turku. wizzair.com
Solo Sokos Hotel Turun
Seurahuone in Turku is from
€138 (£121). sokoshotels.i
kissmyturku.com
visitturku.i/enMORNING
Up and at ’em for a sea and sauna
session, where it’s customary
— but not mandatory — to go
in the buf. Sweat it out as you
overlook the peaceful water
beyond, with geese, swallows
and terns crossing the skies in
search of breakfast. “Do you
know what to do when swimming
in cold water?” owner Sam asks.
“Don’t be tense — just relax and
breath slowly.” And with that,
hot-foot it into the chilly sea, then
retreat to the heat of the sauna,
repeating this process until you’ve
worked up an appetite. Indoors, a
breakfast spread of fresh bread,
porridge, granola and rhubarb jam
awaits. And aterwards? Try the
easy climb up Borgberget Hill and
its observation tower for views
over the distant Åland Islands
and boats snaking between the
clusters of green.
AFTERNOON
Take a ferry from Houtskär to
Korppoo as you make your way
back to Nagu. Stop for a stroll at
Korppoo’s string of harbour huts,
selling everything from smoked
salmon to sailor trinkets. Walking
trails twist away from here, one
leading to a medieval church,
others to secluded beaches. If
you’ve time, take a ishing or
kayaking trip. In Nagu, the leafy
garden of the mustard-hued
Köpmans Café & Restaurant
provides a perfect pitstop for a
slice of berry pie and a round of
‘poptails’ (frozen fruit pops served
in sparkling wine). Flavours include
gin, cucumber and tonic, and
strawberry, mint and cantaloupe.
For something more substantial,
however, head to L’Escale for
French fare or try Najaden, a
steamboat restaurant serving up
crispy pizza and cold beers.EVENING
It takes a little over an hour to get
back to Turku for a last hurrah.
Kick of your evening with a
pre-dinner drink at E. Ekblom;
a recently devised option is
the ‘spruce’ cocktail, made
with Napue gin, ruby port wine,
spruce sprout syrup, cranberry
and lime. “In Finland we have
‘everyman’s rights’ — you can
pick anything you want from the
forest,” Riku, the barman, says
of the syrup. Next up, head to
‘this side’ of the river for dinner
at Kaskis, a 36-seater spot that’s
oten booked up two months
ahead. Four- and six-course
seasonal options are paired
with wine; dishes range from
whiteish and fried nettles with
a lemon-seasoned butter sauce
to a white asparagus, pork and
Varkaus caviar with homemade
almond milk.DAY THREE ISLAND LIFE
58 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
WEEKENDER