British Vogue - 11.2019

S

eventy per cent of my patients have

hyperpigmentation – people are far

more aware of it now than they

used to be,” says Dr Dennis Gross,

founder of the eponymous skincare line

and a practising dermatologist in New York.

And, with so many types of pigmentation,

the first port of call is to identify which

you have. “Discolouration can include post-

acne marks; melasma from going through

the menopause, pregnancy or taking

contraception; and age spots or freckles

caused by UV exposure,” explains Dr Alexis

Granite, a consultant dermatologist at

Mallucci London and the Cadogan Clinic.

So, how can we treat the problem without

exacerbating it? “The most important thing

to remember is to never throw your skin off

balance,” says Dr Gross. “When you use

harsh products, the skin’s pH balance can

be disrupted. This can lead to bad-bacteria

flourishes, and natural oil level fluctuations,

Pigmentation 101

If you’re concerned about patches of skin

discolouration, Kathleen Baird-Murray has

the products and treatments to turn to

which will weaken the skin

barrier.” The answer? Avoid

stripping cleansers and instead

turn to moisturisers that

contain hyaluronic acid and

ceramides. This is a strong

start, but what follows next

needs to be targeted.

In cases of post-inflammatory

hyperpigmentation (let’s say

you squeezed a spot and –

more likely if you have dark

skin – are paying the price with

a heavy blotch), Dr Yannis

Alexandrides, the cosmetic-

surgeon founder of 111Skin,

suggests a hydrating spot

treatment. On the other hand,

for melasma and solar lentigines

(better known as liver, age or

sun spots), topical solutions,

such as vitamin C and retinol,

are more effective.

Finally: skincare alone cannot

fix this. If you want a flawless

complexion, you’re going to

need professional treatments.

But here’s where it gets complex, with no

two practitioners agreeing on the same

course of action. IPL laser is favoured by

some, frowned on by others. “This laser is

not the best solution for every patient,” says

Dr Gross. “Those with darker skin tones

should avoid IPL treatments – they can

actually cause too much trauma to the skin,

which could result in post-inflammatory

hyperpigmentation, making the problem

worse. Opt for a serum with active

ingredients instead.” Dr Granite, meanwhile,

favours a Dermamelan peel, though, again,

for some darker skins, this isn’t suitable.

(It also requires a week of downtime, during

which skin is red and flaky.) London-based

doctor Dr Michael Prager prefers to treat

discolouration with radio-frequency (suitable

for all skin tones), peeling, dermarolling

or mesotherapy – during which micro

punctures are made in the skin to induce a

healing process that can help pigmentation.

One thing all specialists do agree on is

that embarking on any course of treatment

means hypervigilant sun avoidance for your

face, whether you’re on a beach or basking

in a beautiful blast of sunshine on a winter’s

day. And, perhaps, learning to love our

imperfections a little more. n

Right, from top:

SkinCeuticals

Discoloration

Defense Serum, £85.

Eucerin Sun

Protection Pigment

Control SPF50+,

£20. 111Skin

3-Phase Anti

Blemish Booster,

£85. RéVive

Perfectif Even Skin

Tone Serum Dark

Spot Corrector,

£225. Dr Dennis

Gross Professional

Grade IPL Dark

Spot Concentrated

Serum, £99. Sisley

Sunleÿa GE

Age Minimizing

Global Sun Care

SPF50+, £180

SKINCARE SPECIAL

FERNANDO GOMEZ/TRUNK ARCHIVE; GETTY IMAGES; PIXELATE.BIZ

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