STYLE
C
O
L
LA
G
E
,^ M
A
XW
EL
L^
B
UR
N
S
T
EI
N
;^ P
H
O
TO
G
R
A
P
H
Y,
G
E
TT
Y^
ELLECANADA.COM 41
Capote’s legendary Swans—a group of rich
and powerful women who shared an obvious
physical trait with the feathered birds—for
inspiration. While researching the signature
styles of women like Lee Radziwill and Marella
A g nel l i , G oya d i scovered a p ench a nt for h i gh
necklines, including turtlenecks, ruffles and
button-ups. “They sought to complement and
showcase their figure without revealing too
much,” she says, which led her to create pieces
like her Tabatha shirt, a long-sleeved ivory
blou se w it h a n embroidered , r u ffl ed col l a r. T he
effect is commanding. “High necklines refocus
attention. The eye is elegantly drawn upwards,
and you are forced—for the better—to look
at the wearer with consideration,” explains
Goya. “I believe the appeal of this type of
silhouette is in that power.”
Indeed, for such a small area, the collar
is imbued with an incredible amount of
power and instantly communicates status
and authority; consider the jabot necks worn
by judges, the ruff collars favoured by Queen
Elizabeth I and the clerical bands on a priest.
In a time when casual Friday lasts all week
and you’re more likely to work for a CEO in a
crew neck than one in a suit, proudly sporting
a collar has an impact. “It definitely makes
my clients feel quite empowered when they’re
dressed in a higher neckline,” says Stacy
Troke, a personal stylist working in Toronto
and the U.K. Professionally, being buttoned
up can signal confidence and should never
be an afterthought. “It’s kind of a good way
to hide the fact that you might be a little bit
disorganized in the background,” she adds.
Considering that the throat is the location
of the vishuddha, the chakra associated with
expression and communication, it makes sense
that necklines have this power. And as with
a hat or sunscreen, sometimes the best form
of protection is to cover up.
THINGS ARE LOOKING UP. While it was
once the length of your hemline that dictated
the trendiness of your look, today the neckline
is where it’s at, and designers of all styles are
experimenting with statement-making ways of
dressing this erogenous zone. No matter which
way you up the ante, the final effect is one
that’s polished, powerful and picture-perfect.
On runways this season, there was nary
a collarbone in sight. At Roksanda, the
namesake designer brought the signature
billow of her sleeves to the neckline, with
bows, ruffles and feathers—and sometimes
all three—just under the chin. At Celine,
creative director Hedi Slimane paraded a
carousel of scarves, turtlenecks and buttoned-
up-to-here shirts. Even Donatella Versace,
patron saint of Italian sexy, covered up her
models in ribbed turtlenecks. The silhouette
was later sported by Kim Kardashian, who
stepped out in a psychedelic turtleneck dress
by buzzy Los Angeles label Maisie Wilen.
“When designing, I’m constantly thinking
about the types of silhouettes women really
love wearing, always balancing what’s not
only visually interesting but also comfortable
and flattering,” says designer Maisie Schloss.
For Vancouver’s Laurence & Chico, a high
neckline, like the one on the white-collared
denim-and-pearl jacket spotted on regular
client Cardi B, is a way to elongate the sil-
houette. “It makes the figure super-long and
feminine looking, which we adore,” explains
co-founder Laurence Li.
Stine Goya, whose eponymous
Copenhagen-based label has been worn by
Michelle Obama, Pink and a slew of Instagram
It girls, savours the tension in fashioning a
neckline. “What could I conceal? What should
I reveal? How will the materials I use fall on
the body, and what overall feeling will it cre-
ate?” she says. This fall, she looked to Truman
High Tops
Caitlin Agnew explains why you should
be sticking your neck out this fall.
Style icon Lee Radziwill pictured
in 1968 in a bow blouseHillary Clinton in an open-shoulder
Donna Karan dress in 1993The late Karl Lagerfeld was rarely
seen without a high collar.Meghan Markle changed into a mock-neck
Stella McCartney gown on her wedding day.