1, 4 & 5. The art works across
the property are by 12 artists,
capturing Kochi and Kerala
old and new- Kettle makes its own flavoured
sugar syrups, alcohol-free
liqueurs, and much more - The verandah is like the space
to receive acquaintances in
a Keralite house - Kashi Art Café in Fort Kochi
is excellent for snacks and meals
peoples who visited Cochin as part of the spice trade.
The ‘cheen’ in the ‘cheen chatti’ – the pan that is now a
ubiquitous part of the Kerala kitchen arsenal — comes from
China; puttu from the Portuguese steamed funnel cake. The
lunch-time thali forms not just an introduction to the cultures that
informed Kochi, but also a taste of the variety and complexity
of cuisine across Kerala (buffet breakfast from 650 ). The sambaran, for example, made with a Namboodiri Brahmin recipe, has onions added, but with none of the sharpness you would expect that ingredient to bring to the buttermilk. Or try a tea or coffee tasting at Kettle. Many of the drinks come with names that hark back to our mythical Lila’s history. Aunt Rosy’s anise milk is a Dutch nightcap with no alcohol in it; the apple tea or coffee is named after Miss Cohen. Once replete, it would be easy to decide to just wallow in the property’s rooftop pool, lie about in the cosy rooms, but don’t. Kochi is worth exploring – its modern shopping distractions like LuLu Mall, or its heritage in Fort Kochi – on the menu are St Francis Church, believed to be the oldest European built church in India (Church Rd; 8.30am – 5pm; free); the Indo-Portuguese Museum with its religious artefacts (Bishop Kureethara Rd; 9am – 1pm, 2pm – 6pm Tues – Sun; 40 adult, ` 20 child); Mattancherry Palace with its
riveting murals (Palace Rd, Mattancherry; 9am– 4pm Sat – Thur;
` 5 adult, child free). Wander through Jew Town and its
centuries-old Pardeshi Synagogue (Synagogue Lane,
Mattancherry; Sun – Thur) and have a bite: Kashi Art Café
has wonderful food in a courtyard dotted with art works
(Burgher St; 8.30am – 10pm; from ` 150 ), while Ginger
House on the waterfront offers meals eaten amid antiques
(Jew Town Rd; Mattancherry; 8am – 8pm May – Oct, till 12am
Nov – April; from ` 250 ).
Go even further back in time; the hotel can help you take
a tour of ancient Muziris, the atmospheric port city that was
so crucial to the global spice trade before it was wiped out by
a flood in 1341. A hop-on-hop-off boat from the Department of
Tourism takes you to six historic sites, each imbued with a culture
and atmosphere many centuries old (www.muzirisheritage.org).
And, when you’re done with the past, come back to the
Port Muziris property, and discover that, to the staff, you could
be Lila. Think of how a little child is indulged and given the best
time ever. Then imagine it being done to you – it will be.STAY:PortMuziris– A TributePortfolioHotel
(www.marriott.com;from`5,400)1EXPLORE:WEEKENDPLANNER542 36October 2019 19