Lonely_Planet_India_-_October_2019

Introducing our new front sections

GoldenUttarakhandglare,Rajaji, IndiaNationalPark,

@rajnish.rishikesh

BirdsIndiaofprey,SabarmatiRiver,Gujarat,

@gypssysoul

o

oyalharashtrablackbuck,IndiastandstallinAmbajogai, Up@dreamscloseandofdolphinpersonalinAssam, India

mwanshishantanu

AMaharashtrapachydermposes, IndiainAurangabad,

@palakp

nal

BreakfastKenya atLakeNakuruNationalPark,

@shwetaab

PHOTOCHALLENGE

Eachmonth,weseta new

challengefor ourInstagram

followers– to submitphotos

on a specifictraveltheme.

Herewerevealthewinning

imagesfor ‘wildlife’

Wildlife

@lonelyplanetmagazineindia

A bit of armchair travel is the best way to inspire

a future trip. If you can’t get away this month

o r sim p l y wa n t t o d r if t o f f o n a d a yd re a m

for an hour or two, let our writers, photographers

and travellers take you on a vicarious journey,

whether to London or the lively streets of Mumbai.

W h a t eve r t y p e o f t r ip yo u’re p l a n nin g t his m o n t h,

we’ve got the know-how to help you on your way.

Our experts and locals share their recommendations

and insider tips, meaning you’ll have a better holiday,

whether you fancy a quick city break, an active trip

that will really push your boundaries or a lazy

weekend in the countryside.

YOUR WORLD OF DISCOVERIES

explore

TALES

FROM

THE

ROAD

J O U R N A L

p

ecthecitymostwithoftheseyourtimeinthis

freeexperiences

EXPLORE

5 FREEBIES

Boston,TheUSA

aISTORYcoupleofhourson

oryndincorporatesThepathstretches

educanbricksjoinwilltell

casteriencetoaccompany

(^3) ObservatorySTAREForanighta tINTOyou’llB o s t o nAneverU ni ve rsi t ySTARRYforget,NIGHTT h editchtheclubstogostargazingattheJudsonBCoit
thenightskywithadvancedbinocularsPu b li candtelescopesO p e nN i g h t sIfthegi veweatherv isi t o rsisaonc h a n c eyourt oo b s e r ve
enjoyyourplacebreathtakinginadvanceviewsforofthistheverystarssoughtandlearnafteraboutexperienceastronomyaswellRememberside,toyou’llreserve
publicopennightattheobservatory) (wwwbuedu/astronomy/events/
(^5) Ifyou’reENJOYHANGOUTlooTHECOOLESTSPOT OUTDOOR
The^4 SamuelOFSEETHETHEAdamsBEERBEAUTYBreweryHOLDERIN(yes,THEnamedEYESafter
thetheestablishmentFoundingFather)togiveoffersvisitorsfreetoursapeekaround
beveragesthemakingToursofoneofAmerica’smostoriginalinto
toshowenthusiastsdepartthebrewingevery^45 processminutesand
theandingredientsolder,thebreweryusedForallowsvisitorsfreewhosamplingare 21
o fwantingt h re et y p e smore,o foptb e e rsforoneI ft h a tofthel e a ve syo u
ticketedbrewerytourslanding/bostonbrewery(wwwsamueladamsexclusivecom/
#brewerytours)
Tp re s t i gi o u sTHEHASSLES
ecturee s t a b lis h e dandscenicin1636,
hetions!university’sTakelegacy
ndardgetedu/aninsider’s
EANPAVONE/
23RF(
),JONB
LOUS/
23RF(2),
PANYA
KUANUN/
23RF(3),
FAMVELDMAN/
WalkandAKEmstheandAfreedomSTaROLLfascinatiotrailTHROifnywithou’veUGHUSgothistHIa 23RF(4),
ilescallythrosignificantughdowntlocationsownBostoThenrea
ourthingoryoudownloadneedtoknow,anaudioandpodcyou
nformativeedomtrailandorg)enjoyableexpe
OniversityHARVARDisoneoWftheITHOUTmostp
eeworld,stEnjoyand,thehaviiconicngarchitebeene
onstressfootofandtestslearnandapplicaabouttht
lexperieexperiencences(wwwitoffers,harvaan
ard/tours)
Forofeverytravellertype
Allowthesenewstayoptions
EXPLORE totemptyoutowander
NGARSAP
THEREOF
NEWHOTELS
Easyindulgences
RSANAND,jaratlifestyleisallaboutmovingforward,
a nmlessness,l u xedabad’sh o t e l,Sardarfitsb a s e ditperfectly.Vallabhbhaio nt h eLocated
lmostAirport,popularit’salsoattractionsataconvenientinthe
rstarkSanand;differencethelively,betweenvibrantworkandand
ableorblursease.theThelineCafébetweenEtCeterathealltwodaywithdiner
vesanincreasinglypopularcuisine
Japanese
alongwithothercomfortfood,while
doublingup
asachilledoutworkspace.The^104
roomscome
wihcooldecor,andoffercomplimentary
wifi
andwww.gingerhotels.com/gingergymaccess. sanand;from6, PULLMANNADIBAYRESORT &SPA WailoaloaWhetheronthebeachyourBeach,ideaorheadbangingofFijiavacationatnightisaquietouts,stroll thenewPullmanNadiBayResort& Spaworks. TenminutesfrombothNadiInternational Airport andPortDenarau’sentertainmentprecinct, itoffers accesstoboth,unexploredstretchesof shoreand spotsbuzzingwithlocalentertainment. Soakinthe seabreezeonthepatioofoneofthe^236 rooms, o rh e a dove rt oo n eo ft h ef o u rsi g n a t u re re s t a u ra n t s andthreebars.Theexclusiveadultsonly bar,Kah, offerslavishmealswithasideofgorgeous sunsets; theyoungonescanchilloutinTheKids Clubor theTeensRetreat.Thebeachfrontwater sportscentre hasadventureinstore,afterwhichrelaxation awaits atwww.pullmanhotels.com,theVeikauspa. from12, 50 0
QUIETThodakayam,D e e pinBYh ec o reTHEo fKeralaRIVERas p ra w lo ft h el u s
forest,escapelongestQuietriverintobynature.thePeriyarRiverSetonoffersthethepropertybanksitsgue
fordownitsloversmerryaruggedofwayanythroughpath,kindoffoadventure.thelowforest.therivS
independentopeninglocalhouses,outcottages,towithstupendousspacious,modelledviewwell
fullesttheanddailyconversation.glory.changingTheverandahExpectmenu,toiswhibid
traditionalandingredients.recreatedrecipesThisforpropertygueststhathaveusip
reconnectionwww.cghearth.com/quiewithnature.
forAlovershavenof
adventure
Quirkyvibrantanddecor
p
ParthJhaplanstripsto travelregular‘railfanning’backin time
withnarrow@photogaugetheektrainsletahai
Alongthe
Straightand
Narrow
JOURNAL
THEPHOTOSTORY
olade
garholeNati
ChanctonburyRinginWestSussexisreputedlyone
ofthemosthauntedplacesinEngland
LonelyPlanetwriterOliverSmithpaidanovernight
visittoseewhatallthefussisabout
Downs,placeRingIisdanalwaysaboutIronsixAgewantedmileshilltofor tnorthgo,onChanctonburytheofWorthingSouth
oncetreesstoodsoaringItByisonday,aratherasummit,itcommandsmodestwherehill,atwofinewithRomanprospectslendertemplesbeech
overItisButpopularthethatpatchworkisn’twiththepicnickersfieldsreasonofIwantedsouthernanddogtowalkersEnglandgo
thelavishly,ByDevilnight,seethinglyhimselfwhencanthehauntedpicnickersbefoundLocalpatrollinghavefolkloredeparted,thetellsringitthatis
I’veoftreesvariousheardabovestoriesghosts,ParanormalaboutUFOs,campersmessagefairieshearingandboardspaganscreamsyieldsacrificerumoursinthe
ItlowerswithisthetheRoswellitssupernaturallandingofthegear,HomethatitcrusheseveryCounttimearesidentesanaalienplacepixiespaceshipsoinfested
AndbackAdirectwithitseemsatrainanyonetaletorunstellwhofromspendsoutsidethethenightLonelytherePlanetcomesoffice
inIcaughtLondonArmeda5pmwithanservice,aoppor tunityPotNoodlesmugandtootoabegoodsleepingsettingtomissbag,offonaghost
huntingInorthstompedthroughadventureuphillalatefromamongafternoonLancing,homeboundfollowingArcadia,commuterscolouredchalk yridgewaysgoldenby
breezethetoFrance,slantingIpassedandsunfieldsthroughFarawayofyoungwoodlandboatswheatputteredbaskingswayedacrossinindappledtheasilveryoffshorelseaght
ThesehadMoleaNochucklewereharmtheaboutcouldwholesome,cometheparanormaltoEnglmeshherewoodsinvestigators’IsatonofRattyalog,reportsandand
oncountersTwoChanctonburyhoursintobadger’slater,Ring,nightdenspicturinghadinthefallen,themsmalland,shovinghourssuddenly,Geigertheir
paranormaloftreesChanctonbur ylurchedinvestigationsoutRingofthegloomThedidn’thillaswasseemIarrivedansoislandsillyattheofSpinywoodsdarkness,
risinganofainternetbranchoverlamplrecalledmessagetSussexaboardcreepyvillagesIinfraredunpackedbelowphotomyEachsleepingIhadsnapseenbagon
A
and,civilisation:landingforawhileatGatwickboyconsoledracersAndrevvingthenmyselfdarknesswithalongsoundsthebecameA283,ofplanestotal,
andofbadgersAndtheonlythat’sandsoundswhenthenervouswereitbeganthethumpBOOMhootsofofmyowls,owntheheartbeatscuffling
IseemedthoughtThestilltotoquakeofmyselfthenightbeneaththatwasIcouldmeinterruptedWasbewatchingIimaginingThegroundNewsnightit?
atforhome,AndTheBlairagainratherWitchBOOMthanProjectquiveringThegroundwthtrembledfear,volunteeringoncemore
MylightsmyselfbloodbeamedforturnedimminentoutcoldofalienaIsatnearbystillabductionasfieldastone,afewSureminutespreparingenough,laterbright
Iambulance,tohauledEarthmyselfTheandalienouttheyspacecraftofhadmysleepingwrittenlooked“BOMBbagverytowelcomeDISPOSAL”similarthemtoanon
thepoliceInstantlysdeofficerTworelieved,aliensjumpeddisguisedoutIaffectedtoopenastheaasoldierfivetechniquebarandgatearequiredSussex
forstraighteningtechniqueconversationsusedmywhenwithbackaskingthe(whicharmy,aboutisroughlyfoldingdrillbmythetsarmssameinB&Q)and
asI“WaswonderedcasuallythereifastheyIa,coulderrr,hadbombforbeenabombindoingthatrelatedfiecontrolledd?”enquiryIasked,explosions
The“It“AsoldierGermanwasn’tawasbombmineunimpressedfromItwasWorldamineWar”II? ”
disposalandBythisjumpedoperationpointbackthesoldierinonthethevanconversationhadIwalkedperformedbackHehissmiledtoownmysleepingweakly,
bag,forintoconcernponderingadeepthansleepwhetherhypotheticalundertheaNazicanopyextrabombofterrestrialswasabeechgreatertree,Icausefellwaking
onlytheIdistantwhenpackedtheKentishmyfirstrucksack,beamsWeadsaidofsunrisefarewellweretogatheringChanctonburyover
Ringdevils,TheandexplosionsaliensreturnedorhadfairiestoprobablytheButofficethenscaredwithagain,nothemittaleswasn’tallofoffghosts,myfault
GOINGFURTHER
p
p
y ngforsomeentert
MSHANY
t
om
byh
EXPLORE
News,ravelviewsandmorewonderfulNewswaysodiscoverourplanet
NEWDVINGEXPERIENCE
ThetoPlanet’supdatedstaymuchshopINDIAanticipatedmapsandisfieattinenallyaries (^18) here!everythinghandedtfeaturestipstionyouonofLonelywhereneed
toTamilgomountainsknowgeousNadutoexplorecounttothethisstunningyguideFomhecoversdivetheShositymistyeoftaTempleourlHimalayanin
RAJASTHANpubSOUTHGOAished&NDIAMUMBAIin 2019 DELHI&KERALA(8th&ediAGRA(10ion)(6hareedihalsoedion)beingtion)and
LetthehheoughculturalRAJASTHANitagetheoficonictreasureheGoldenDELHImonumentstoveTriangle&thatAGRAisandDiscoverSouguideroyalhIndiayou
andandmodernDipenjoytsintolushMumbai’scitheieslandscapesinsusegadSOUTHbestdokeptfestyleINDIAltedlocalwiin&hIndia’ssecretsKERALAvibrant
sunshinestatewihGOA&MUMBAI
NEWGET,BOOKSET,GOAL!
POCKETtwopublishedtheperfecthistoicDELHIweekendforctheties&wifiAGRArsthgetawaytimehiswthisconcisellyearbetohesePlan
easybookstores 21643314 toueSouthRajasandguideonlineIndhan(availableaDelhisto&Keralaes&atAgramostInd 10 a 618
and^1 Pocket^643 GoaDehi&&MumbaiAgra^81 ^1643045 TRYPADDLECANOESOMETHINGANEWCLEAR KnowntrendwateafinesfplacetranspaforomantostreamabundanceenttyouttokayaktheseaoflatestFlorngcrystalactivedaclears seatAtseeoffersROCKturandtourslesSPRINGSoGETalltersUPoverorANDthealligators(pictured)GOSunshKAYAKINGyoufromneStatemightyour TrybiolumRAtlantverspoorctingnescencecoastanmanateesghtinseatimeThechexpeditionalongseeofthroughCrystalonhe vesselspaddlecertainlightshowareplanktondsturbswewhichlsucomb(wwwtedoccurstojellyfigetupandwhenhshswaterandadippedborne gokayakingcomfrom^3 900)
AandslewmoBOAT-BORROWINGofeexperiencedcompaniesNEWTRENDnowsailoosfershenoviceschance
totorentaanysuperBORROWhingyachtfromHere’saApaddleboardBOATourpick
fthisasomApartinahecompanykayakingIONIANfomstraightoffersadventureISLANDSpackagedupentals(pictured)inPotripssuchtugal’s
fromAlgarvetotaanship 1 lIcelandic 22 (www^2500900 forvoyageborrowaboatfora^11 atwoonnightahourhistovoyage)comtrip)ic
TakeThiswthapeerskippeorwtoCLICK&BOATthoutedpeercaptainsaservicelboatandistsonvesselshecrewItaian
Riviea(www(^17) SAMBOATclickandboat500/day)com FdayanceFocusedpricesfororastartCroamainlyskipperfomialessonasOrEuropeifitrytleshingasaweeklySamBoat’sboat^1 230/inchasayter
(wwwsamboatcom)
MALTAunderwaterandhebestvariety’sclearplaceofinwiMeditediveEuropehnewlytessraneanmaketoexplopeitmiarguablywaterstedeaccessto
andeightTheandrecentlysteameWWIIwrecksopenedaddingandsalsurincludeoundedstotesitssubdateaircaaquabackbytreefssubmaictoWWIappealandines
caves 30 Sailooverbyyearss’KThisagoaistuastatuetaandmadaBasecuredofnowasunkenatoorapopulartheChricrafteabedisoftwatcheddivehealmostste
FindatwwwoutmorevistmaaboutacomMalta’sdivecentes
WeekendchillDoseoutbreaksgetaways,of cultureTakeyourjourneyspick!of discovery,
I m m e r s eof theA i tle overt wasa se tlementMallayo u r s efourdynastyhouf i n c uof artisanss fromCenturiest u r eKoi n B is h n u p u randkatalatercraftsmenlieshe ar isanalhe v llageWe stwhoB e n g a lfloutradof BishnupurishedtionsduringhaveTradbeenhe reigntionapassedly
howcaseonhisa n ddownplace’sM u g h a lhe genespeciaveryin fl u e n c e sintea ionsty as arees ingandT h e re’sblendste racottaarea l s oof architectust ll thrivinga m u s e u mtemplesBalucharial stylesh a tThesedis p l a y scenturiesincludings lk sarist e ra c o t t aoldareOdiastructuresfi g u r in e sBengai
(nearimposshate n t irealmostRamanandac o l l e cbleeveryto walki o nso f fi g u re ssecondaroundCollegehousethe11amd r y in gvi lagehaso u t si d e– 6pma potteryanda n dnotMonseeclosedwheelf t h eanyYou’p ro p r i e t e rterracottaentrye very5)is in a g o o dl kelyIt’sfiguresalmostto findgiven moodbreakBishnupuryouf omtheoffersmightchaosaneveninterestingof c tiesgeta decentg impsediscountintoruralAsideBengalfromthehat’shistorya welcomeandart ExploWhsomehecapitalle a lotremnantse stunningof Pavagadhof India’sfroma chbefoIslamictectukingdomre in Champanere thata ch tectureimebytooMahmudChampaneris f omGujaratBegedatheMughalin Gujaratgrandsonerathereof Ahmedwasdeclaareed Shahdeclaof Champanerstunningof Ahmedabadedarchitecturea WoOverld Hercomebackhetagenextin 1484up (^20) iteuntbyyearsl HumayunUNESCOaftera massiveheannexedin 2004defeatedflurryChampanerThetheof aclastmostivityRajputsignsawficantkingt wassome monumentki Masjidacrossbet viewtheoverworldis a g eathetheJami– is featuredcityexampleMasjidcanbe– saidof thein thehadto haveblendingfromEncyclopediaatopinfluencedof Islamictheminarof Womosqueof Kevdaandld A ch tectureIndiana ch tectureMasjidarchitecturalSaher-The stylesyoucityandengagedTherehePavagadharefora weekendhundredsmountainof monumentsor moIf historyeikeis yourthesescatteredthingChampaneracrosswi l keeptheentie GoadvantagebeGivenneglectedbeyondheof andTajheThisMahal’sTajexploreis exactlyin AgrapopularityfurtherUttarwhatwePradeshawayhewouldo herfromgemsikethrongsourin Agradiscerningof touristssometimesreadersAgratendFortto taketoa massiveOriginallythe(wwwshiagrafortstructuret in archbult bygovtecturaloveAkbarinlookingAmarstylehisof theSinghbuildingheYamunaGateime– fromwassunriseRiverrevampedsandstone– sunsetis hebyperfectto maShah40/spotJahanbleperson)to witnessAcoss
thehighThisfinalriverrestingightwasthef omhereplacefirstis hetheMughalis Akbar’sTajornateis heconstructiontombgatetombw th its redof Itmad(SikandraentirelyUdstoneDaulahsunin whiteiseand– sunsetmarblefa hermableof NoorentrywoAnotherk VisJahan 10 famous) Thetingall thesebupehalt bymonumentsa localBaburdeandseis hardthet Finaclosestworkly windandandleastthedownbestc owdedyourwaydayto rewaviewingat Mehtabd yourselfpointBaghforis wi h somethea gardenTaj A closein Champanermostin ricalookat thee of detailsrevealsarchiheecture AHMEDABADOutof KOLKATA(186km)Outof (186km) (^12345) STAY:from6 500)ChampanerJambughodaHertagePalaceResort(www(wwwjambughodachampanerheritageresortcomfrom2 20 0)com STAY:BanalataHotelResortAnnapurna(wwwhote(wwwbanalataannapucomnahotelfromin from3 540)3 000) CourtyardSTAY:byTCMarrMughalottAgra(www(wwwtchotelmariottin fromcomfrom5 821)`5 175)
1 & 2 Youin a l st a g e sin Bishnupur3 4 & 5 Thew ll seeo f d eve l o pa chitecfiguur
in Ag raevolutionMughalis e st a m e ntof thetimesc afto hthroug
p
p
p