IT’SEARLYMORNINGONTHEFARMAND
alowmistblanketsthesoftsurrounding hills.
Amourningdovecallsfromthetrees,setting
offanunseendoginafuryofbarking.Shapes
appearthroughthegloom,spindlysilhouettes
thatriseintotheairlikeaforestofswords.
Stridingtowardsthemisfarmguide Christine
Munyantwali,herbluefleecezippedup against
thecold.Aswegetcloser,theshapesturn into
cows,andthespindlesintotheirextraordinarily
longhorns.TheseareAnkolecattle,adistinctive
sightinthispartofUgandaandsomething
ofalocalstatussymbol.
Christinestopsatoneandrubsitsbrown
hide.“Thisonewantsamassage,”shesays.
“Herdsmendothistocleanoffthemud, and
thecowsareveryhappytheydoit.”She stops
scratchingandthecowturnsitsheadto look
atherwithmilddisapproval.“It’snowonder
peoplelovethem,”shesayswithalaugh,
andstartsagain.
The 100 orsocattleinthefieldsbelong to
EmburaraFarmLodge,whichaimstoeducate
visitorsaboutranchlifeandtheimportance of
cattleinthelocalculture.“Cowsareasource
ofpridehere,”Christinecontinuesaswe amble
afterthegrazingherd.Itsettlesbeneath a lucky
beantree,anegretwatchingfromitsbranches.
“Traditionally,theyareadowry.Iftheman’s
familydoesn’thavecattle,thebride’sfamily
willsay‘Don’tshowup,please!’”
Thetwoherdsmenlookafterthefarm’s
cattlethroughouttheday,milkingthem
inthemorning,leadingthemtoponds
intheafternoon,lightingfiresintheevening
towardoffthecoldandflies,andputting calves
ingrass-roofedbandas(simpleshelters)
overnighttokeepthemsafefrompredators.
“Theherdsmentalktothem,singtothem,
massagethem.Theyknoweverysingle one,
andtheyspendmoretimewiththemthan with
theirownfamilies,”saysChristineaswe make
ourwaybacktothelodge.“Theherdsmen really
lovetheircows.”Travel in
cattle class
Stay
If you want one splurge in Uganda, Bwindi Lodge
(above) is the place to have it (www.volcanoes
safaris.com; full board from ` 3 7, 5 0 0 ). It’s run by
the Volcanoes Partnership Trust, which takes local
kids whose families can’t afford further education
and trains them in the hospitality business at the
lodge, the on-site tea plantation and the Bwindi Bar
in town. Eight cottages are dotted around the site,
each named after a local gorilla and with
a verandah looking out over the rainforest.
You’ll have access to a personal butler,
a complimentary massage in the spa (excellent for
post-trek weariness), and your every whim catered
for before you’ve thought of it. The lounge,
with a central fireplace and massive windows,
is a lovely place to flop, and superb meals are
served in the lodge’s antique and art-lined dining
room. If you’re on a budget, Rushaga Gorilla Camp
has cabins from ` 4,400 (www.rushaga.com).examining the bark of a tree and staring into
the treetops, emitting a low rumble.
The Mubare family is one of 15 in Bwindi.
Home to almost half the world’s mountain gorilla
populaton, the park has seen its conservation
efforts pay dividends. The last census counted
an estimated 430 animals, and Stephen believes
the next one will number over 600. “Progress
is being made,” he says. “They are still
endangered, but no longer critically.”
To reduce stress on the animals, only one hour
of contact with them is allowed per day, and we
are too soon marching back down the mountain.
We emerge wearing half the forest, our skin
scratched and bruised, our clothes drenched.
“On a difficult day, we get back here with
someone carried on a stretcher,” says Stephen
as he hands out tracking certificates. “But visits
help with conservation, so tell your friends, tell
them all about Uganda and the gorillas they’ll
meet here. Everyone always comes out of the
forest more satisfied than they ever expected.”
http://www.ugandawildlife.org; park entry: 2,750, tracking permits: 40,500
94 October 2019