amandacanninghasnowbeento every
country she rhymes with. Her trip was
supported by the Uganda Tourist Board.“JUSTCALLMEMARIASHOEBILL,”SHOUTSMARIA
Shoebill, standing on the prow of the boat and
shielding her eyes from the sun.
At the bow, her helpers Tony and Wilson are
in the water, pushing and pulling the vessel
through the reeds. On occasion, the boat subverts
all conventional qualities necessary to the definition
of ‘boat’ and has to be carried, such is the density
of the mangrove.
We are in the Mabamba Swamp, a vast patch
of wetland near Entebbe, looking for its elusive
resident: the shoebill bird. We are close enough
to the city’s airport for the rumble of planes to
sometimes intrude on the gentle croaking of small
frogs hidden among lily pads with flowers pointing
skywards. Reaching a narrow channel where the
reeds clear, Tony and Wilson pull themselves back
into the boat to start punting. Purple and squacco
herons lift off as we approach, circling through
the air before landing again when we’ve moved on.
Bitterns and lapwings pad about on floating clumps
of vegetation. With the sun slowly arcing towards
the horizon and the gentle poink of water dripping
off the punting poles delivering a pleasant evening
lullaby, a state of happy drowsinesss ensues.
“Quick! I see one,” says Maria in an urgent
whisper, and I struggle to my feet, squinting
in the direction of her pointed finger. I raise my
binoculars towards a dark blob some distance away.
The distinctive head of a female shoebill is revealed,
its long curved beak swooping down from a crested
head. It is a thing of prehistoric beauty, and to see
one seems miraculous – in an area of 24,500
hectares, there are thought to be only nine birds.
“Shoebills love this swamp,” says Maria, as
we approach stealthily. “They feed on the fish,
snakes and frogs that live here, and there is nothing
that wants to eat them or their eggs.” We get close
enough to observe the bird’s yellow eyes, and watch
a drop of water hanging from that magnificent beak
break free and fall. She stalks regally from side to
side, then spins her head round to assess us, like a
stern headmistress catching an act of disobedience.
“Ah,” says Maria. “That really is super quality.”
The shoebill clearly does not think the same of us.
Fixing us with a final imperious stare, she takes off,
long legs dangling behind her. She drifts over the
reedsawayfromus,headingtowardsthesetting
sun,andisgone.
Boat tour: ` 3,500 (www.wildfrontiers.co.ug )
Drift through
a swamp
Stay
If you’d like to be close to the airport
but want your first or last night in Uganda
to be a slightly more special occasion than
that offered by the average business hotel, newly-opened
Hotel No 5 is the place for you (www.hotelnumber5.com;
from ` 20,300). Just 10 minutes from the airport, with a free
transfer service offered, and 20 minutes from central
Entebbe, the boutique hotel has 15 rooms and some
apartments, with views out over the garden, pool and Lake
Victoria from most. The food here is exceptional, and likely
to be some of the most inventive you eat in the country.
BlueMonkey Guesthouse, 2.5 miles from
the airport, is a great budget option
(through Booking.com; from ` 2,200).1296 October 2019