2019-10-01_Bon_Appetit_UserUpload.Net

(John Hannent) #1

54 – OCTOBER 2019


...AND A FEW THINGS WE’D BE VERY HAPPY TO NEVER SEE AGAIN


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An affogato has
two intrinsic flaws:
(1) Hot espresso
melts ice cream,
and (2) You can’t
catch a true buzz
off the dessert. The
solution to both?
Do like Pizzeria
Beddia in Philly
and swap the
espresso for amaro.
House-made sweet
cream soft-serve
and a cola-like
Italian digestivo
such as Averna
is pure nostalgia,
whether you’re
thinking of Mister
Softee or Nonna’s
liquor cabinet. — A.D.

For me, this year was about the little
things. Like, one really little thing in
particular: beans. Glorious beans! The
humble legume has gone from staff
meal staple to fastidiously sourced,
lovingly cooked, proudly plated scene-
stealer. I relished dense, boiled peanut–
esque ayocotes ladled over sticky rice
with greens at Larder in Baltimore.
Big, beautiful, brothy butter beans,
creamy and rich under a shower of
crispy breadcrumbs at Brooklyn’s
reimagined Marlow & Sons. And my
favorite of all, a generous bowl of
tender, delicate crowder peas lolling
about in their own aromatic potlikker,
served alongside a toasty wedge of
proper Southern cornbread at Benne on
Eagle in Asheville, NC: the Appalachian
answer to Alice Waters’s infamous
fruit bowl, perfect in its simplicity.
Sometimes a hill of beans isn’t nothing—
it’s everything. —AMIEL STANEK

Have You Ever

Truly Loved

Until You’ve

Loved a Bean?

POUR SOME


AMARO ON ME


Dying fig
leaf trees

“Add caviar
for $150”

Parsnip ice
cream. Why?

Another text
from the Resy bot

CBD


(sorry)

Charred carrots
with yogurt

The inside
of a food hall

18


19


NO.

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