30 COOK’S COUNTRY • JUNE/JULY 2019
A CAN OPENER typically has a
propeller-like knob called a driving
handle that users turn to move a small,
circular blade around the top of a can.
Traditional models puncture and cut
the lid inside the rim of the can so that
the lid can be removed. Safety models,
however, cut into the side of the can just
beneath the rim so that both the lid and
its rim can be removed, thereby creating
a smoother, safer edge. This also keeps
the lid from slipping into the can.
In our most recent testing, we chose
a safety opener as our winner for its
sleek, comfortable design and easy lid
removal. However, we soon started
hearing complaints. Our test cooks
said that the new opener was confusing
because they couldn’t always tell when
the opener had successfully attached
to the can. Unlike a traditional can
opener that clamps down tightly as it
punctures the lid, this model latches
on to the side and doesn’t give a clear
audible or tactile indication that it’s
properly attached.
It was time to retest. We chose seven
popular models—four traditional open-
ers and three safety openers—priced
from about $8 to just under $55. We
opened cans of varying sizes, from hefty
cans of whole tomatoes to petite cans
of tomato paste, to fi nd an easy-to-use
model that eliminated any guesswork.
Two of the safety can openers were
diffi cult to use because their handles
blocked our view, making it hard to
know if the blades were securely at-
tached to the can. We could see the
blade of the third safety opener—our
previous winner—so we could position
it correctly, but the opener was still not
intuitive to use.
While our testers appreciated that
safety openers prevented lids from sink-
ing into the cans’ contents, they didn’t
like seeing the stringy glue stretching
from the can to the lid as the lid was
removed. As far as we could tell, no glue
got into our food, but it was off -putting.
On the whole, the traditional models
were much easier and more intuitive to
use than the safety openers, which often
confused our testers.
The driving handles of two of the
safety openers were especially hard to
turn. This was because the side of the
can is typically a heavier gauge of metal
than the lid and therefore requires
more force to cut through. The driving
handles on the traditional-style openers
were much easier to turn.
In the end, our winning can opener
was the EZ-DUZ-IT Can Opener, a
traditional model. Testers found it intui-
tive and easy to use, and its long driving
handle—the longest of all the models
we tested—made it a breeze to turn.
As a bonus, it can be used as a safety
opener, too (see “One Opener, Two
Techniques”). Web subscribers
can read the complete testing at
CooksCountry.com/jul19.Can Openers
We tested traditional can openers as well as safety openers. Which style came out on top? by Emily Phares
EQUIPMENT REVIEW7 Can Openers
7 Tests
- Open 6 cans of black beans
- Open 4 cans of tuna
- Open 4 cans of tomato paste
- Open 4 cans of whole tomatoes
- Have users open 1 can of black beans
with each opener - Wash by hand 5 times
- Winner-only durability test: Open
25 cans of black beans
KEY KEY GoodGood ++++++ FairFair ++++ PoorPoor ++HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CRITERIAEZ-DUZ-IT Can Opener
Model: 89 Price: $10.00
Style: Traditional
Driving Handle Length: 3½ inEase of Use
Comfort
Durability+++
+++
+++RECOMMENDEDSwing-A-Way Portable Can Opener
Model: 407BK Price: $7.99
Style: Traditional
Driving Handle Length: 3¼ inEase of Use
Comfort
Durability+++
++1⁄2
+++OXO Good Grips
Soft-Handled Can Opener
Model: 28081 Price: $13.95
Style: Traditional
Driving Handle Length: 3 inEase of Use
Comfort
Durability+++
+++
++RECOMMENDED WITH RESERVATIONSZyliss Lock ’n Lift
Can Opener
Model: 20362 Price: $13.95
Style: Traditional
Driving Handle Length: 3 inEase of Use
Comfort
Durability++
++1⁄2
+++Fissler
Magic Can Opener
Model: 020-081-18-000/0
Price: $43.95 Style: Safety
Driving Handle Length: 3¼ inEase of Use
Comfort
Durability+1⁄2
++
+++NOT RECOMMENDEDComments: Our favorite opener required
almost no thought to operate—it was
intuitive and easy to use. It had the longest
driving handle, which made it easier and
more comfortable to rotate. Can opening
was eff ortless.Comments: Though this model was a
cinch to use, it was a little less comfortable
than our winner, and testers noted that
its “turning mechanism is not as smooth.”
Its slightly shorter driving handle required
some force to turn.Comments: This model was intuitive, and
we liked its comfortable driving handle.
Our testers thought it was “lovely,” but we
docked durability points because one of the
handle covers became loose during testing.Comments: This model was fi ne overall,
but its handle had an annoying button
that we were forced to press to attach it
and to remove it from a can. Once it was
attached, testers found it “very smooth”
to operate.Comments: Our previous winner has a
sleek design and prevents sinking lids, but
we couldn’t easily tell when we had suc-
cessfully attached it to cans, and its driving
handle was harder to rotate than those of
higher-ranking models.Rösle Can Opener with Pliers Grip
Model: 12757 Price: $54.99
Style: Safety
Driving Handle Length: 27⁄8 inKuhn Rikon Auto Safety Lid Lifter
Model: 2242 Price: $15.00
Style: Safety
Driving Handle Length: 3½ inIllustration:^ JayLayman
TRADITIONAL METHOD
Our winner can be used like
a traditional opener, cutting
into the top of the lid.
SAFETY-STYLE
It can also be used like a
safety opener, cutting into
the side of the can.BLADE BLADEDRIVING
HANDLEOne Opener, Two Techniques