Cook\'s Country - 2019-02-03

(Amelia) #1
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2019 • COOK’S COUNTRY 21

CLEMENTINE CAKES ARE almost
always tender single-layer cakes made
with ground clementines. They can be
upside down or right side up and are
typically dusted with confectioners’
sugar or covered with a glaze (chocolate
or sugar) and decorated with candied
slices of their namesake fruit. It seems
odd, but the pulverized clementines add
just the right amount of sweet, sour, and
floral citrus flavor to every bite.
I began by baking five clementine
cake recipes. Each one was unique,
but they all called for ground almonds
as the base of the cake (a few added
a bit of flour, too). The clementine
flavor in the best of these cakes was
surprisingly sweet, with just a hint of
pleasant bitterness. But those recipes
called for cooking the whole clemen-
tines in water for 2 hours (to tame the
rind’s bitterness and soften the fruit)
before pulverizing them in a food
processor. Was cooking them for that
long really necessary?
Thankfully, through a few days of
testing, I discovered that while the
clementines did need to be softened
before grinding, a long boiling time
wasn’t necessary. Microwaving the fruit
in a covered bowl for just a few minutes
did a splendid job of softening it and
getting rid of most of the bitterness.
As for the cake itself, my tasters
loved the rich flavor provided by the
ground almonds (sliced almonds that
I had buzzed in a food processor), but
using all ground almonds made the
texture gritty and dense. Cutting the
almonds with some flour made for a
sturdier, lighter cake. I also discovered
that a well-greased springform pan was
necessary to get the best result—it’s
important that this single-layer cake
be tall, and a springform pan has taller
sides than a cake pan.


For the top of the cake, we loved
the version that called for a thick
white glaze draped over the cake, so it
was just a matter of finding the ideal
ratio of confectioners’ sugar to water
(plus a pinch of salt). We also fell for
the beautiful slices of candied clem-
entines that adorned some versions.
To get consistent ¼-inch-thick slices,
I found that it helped to chill the fruit
and then use a mandoline; from there,
all it took was a stint in boiling sugar
water to nicely candy the fruit. The
candied clementines looked amazing
when laid atop the white glaze—they
tasted great, too, adding a sweet-tart
citrus punch.
Having worked through all the ele-
ments, I baked and assembled one last
cake. I then listened to my coworkers
ooh and aah as I sliced into the finished
cake. Let’s just say there weren’t any
leftovers.

CLEMENTINE CAKE
Serves 8
Look for clementines that are about
2 inches in diameter (about 1¾ ounces
each). We recommend using a
mandoline to get consistent slices
of clementine to arrange on top of
the cake; you can also use a chef’s
knife. We found it easier to slice the
clementines when they were cold. You
will have a few more candied clemen-
tine slices than you will need; use the
nicest-looking ones for the cake’s top.

CAKE
9 ounces clementines, unpeeled,
stemmed (about 5 clementines)
21⁄4 cups (7½ ounces) sliced blanched
almonds, toasted
1 cup (5 ounces) all-purpose flour
11⁄4 teaspoons baking powder
1⁄4 teaspoon salt

10 tablespoons unsalted butter,
cut into 10 pieces and softened
11⁄2 cups (101⁄2 ounces) granulated sugar
5 large eggs

CANDIED CLEMENTINES
4 clementines, unpeeled, stemmed
1 cup water
1 cup (7 ounces) granulated sugar
1⁄8 teaspoon salt

GLAZE
2 cups (8 ounces) confectioners’ sugar
21⁄2 tablespoons water, plus extra as
needed
Pinch salt


  1. FOR THE CAKE: Adjust oven rack
    to middle position and heat oven to
    325 degrees. Spray 9-inch springform
    pan with vegetable oil spray, line bot-
    tom with parchment paper, and grease
    parchment. Microwave clementines
    in covered bowl until softened and
    some juice is released, about 3 minutes.
    Discard juice and let clementines cool
    for 10 minutes.

  2. Process almonds, flour, baking
    powder, and salt in food processor
    until almonds are finely ground, about
    30 seconds; transfer to second bowl.
    Add clementines to now-empty proces-
    sor and process until smooth, about
    1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl
    as needed.

  3. Using stand mixer fitted with
    paddle, beat butter and sugar on
    medium-high speed until pale and
    fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add eggs, one
    at a time, and beat until combined,
    scraping down bowl as needed. Add
    clementine puree and beat until incor-
    porated, about 30 seconds.

  4. Reduce speed to low and add
    almond mixture in 3 additions until
    just combined, scraping down bowl


as needed. Using rubber spatula, give
batter final stir by hand. Transfer bat-
ter to prepared pan and smooth top.
Bake until toothpick inserted in center
comes out clean, 55 minutes to 1 hour.
Let cake cool completely in pan on
wire rack, about 2 hours.


  1. FOR THE CANDIED CLEMEN-
    TINES: Meanwhile, line baking sheet
    with triple layer of paper towels. Slice
    clementines ¼ inch thick perpendicular
    to stem; discard rounded ends. Bring
    water, sugar, and salt to simmer in
    small saucepan over medium heat and
    cook until sugar has dissolved, about
    1 minute. Add clementines and cook
    until softened, about 6 minutes. Using
    tongs, transfer clementines to prepared
    sheet and let cool for at least 30 min-
    utes, flipping halfway through cooling
    to blot away excess moisture.

  2. FOR THE GLAZE: Whisk sugar,
    water, and salt in bowl until smooth.
    Adjust consistency with extra water
    as needed, ½ teaspoon at a time, until
    glaze has consistency of thick craft glue
    and leaves visible trail in bowl when
    drizzled from whisk.

  3. Carefully run paring knife around
    cake and remove side of pan. Using
    thin metal spatula, lift cake from pan
    bottom; discard parchment and trans-
    fer cake to serving platter. Pour glaze
    over cake and smooth top with offset
    spatula, allowing some glaze to drip
    down sides. Let sit for 1 hour to set.

  4. Just before serving, select 8 uniform
    candied clementine slices (you will
    have more than 8 slices; reserve extra
    slices for another use) and blot away
    excess moisture with additional paper
    towels. Arrange slices around top edge
    of cake, evenly spaced. Serve. (Cake
    can be wrapped in plastic wrap and
    stored at room temperature for up to
    2 days.)


Key Steps to a Cake That Tastes Like Sunshine


Microwave the clementines, covered, so
that they steam, soften, release a bit of
juice, and become less bitter.


Process the almonds, flour, baking
powder, and salt until the almonds are
finely ground.

Blitz the cooled softened clementines in
a food processor until smooth and add
them to the batter.

Adjust the consistency of the glaze with
just enough water until it leaves a trail
when drizzled from the whisk.
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