Cook\'s Country - 2019-02-03

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  1. Get ready to whisk
    Form a damp dish towel into a
    ring shape on the counter and
    place a bowl in the center.
    Why? Whisking—and lots of
    it—is key to this recipe, and you’ll
    need both hands. The towel helps
    stabilize the mixing bowl on the
    counter while you work.
    7. Combine dressing ingredients
    Whisk the egg yolk, lemon juice,
    Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mus-
    tard, anchovies, salt, pepper, and
    garlic together in the bowl.
    Why? It’s important that the in-
    gredients are well combined and
    smooth before you add the oil.
    8. Slowly add oil
    Whisking constantly, very slowly
    drizzle in ½ cup of olive oil until
    the dressing is emulsifi ed.
    Why? If you add the oil too fast,
    the dressing will never emulsify
    and become cohesive.
    9. Add grated Parmesan
    Whisk the grated Parmesan into
    the emulsifi ed dressing.
    Why? Adding the cheese earlier
    could prevent the dressing from
    emulsifying.
    10. Put it all together
    Add the romaine, croutons, and
    shredded Parmesan to the dress-
    ing and toss thoroughly.
    Why? Adding the salad’s larger
    components to the bowl with the
    dressing is the best way to guar-
    antee that none of it is wasted.


Whisk Correctly
Whisking is whisking, right? Wrong. Our tests
have shown that the best, most effi cient
motion for emulsifying a vinaigrette (such as
the one for Caesar Salad) is a basic, vigorous
side-to-side motion; it works better than
circular stirring or looping beating. Why does
the side-to-side motion work best? First, it’s
simply an easier motion to execute quickly
and aggressively, allowing you to make more
fi rm strokes per minute. Second, the reversal
in direction creates more of what scientists
call “shear force,” which most effi ciently
breaks the oil into tiny droplets that stay
suspended in the vinegar, helping keep the
dressing emulsifi ed longer. So save circular
beating for egg whites: Dressings are best
whisked side to side.

Key Ingredients


Test Kitchen Tips for Caesar Dressing


Build a Strong Emulsion
Caesar dressing is based on an emulsion
of oil and vinegar. Constant whisking
breaks down the oil into tiny droplets that
get suspended in the vinegar, forming the
creamy emulsion. Add the oil slowly or the
ingredients won’t come together and the
dressing will be greasy.

Romaine Lettuce
You simply cannot call a salad a Caesar salad unless it is made with crunchy,
lightly sweet romaine lettuce. To store romaine, we recommend wrapping each heart
in moist paper towels, placing the hearts in a zipper-lock bag, and stashing them in
the crisper drawer of your refrigerator with the bag left slightly open.

Anchovies
Anchovies are a secret
ingredient of the savvy
cook; even when you
can’t taste them out-
right, these potent little
fi llets add deep savory
fl avor to myriad dishes.
But what to do with the
rest of the tin when a recipe calls for only
a few? We recommend transferring them
to a nonreactive container (an empty jam
jar or a small Mason jar is great) along with
their oil, topping them off with extra olive
oil if necessary to keep them fully covered.
Stored this way in the refrigerator, ancho-
vies should last for up to one month.

Choose the Right Whisk
There are specialty whisks such as fl at
whisks and dough whisks, but most
home cooks can get by with just a
good all-purpose whisk. In our testing
of all-purpose whisks, the OXO Good
Grips 11" Balloon Whisk ($9.99)
came out on top. We love its ergo-
nomic rubber handle and balanced,
lightweight feel. It aced our tests in
whipping both cream and egg whites
and shone when used to emulsify
pan sauces. It works great for Caesar
dressing, too.

Bread for Croutons
While any crusty bread with a soft
interior will work, we especially like
the texture of croutons made with
open-crumbed ciabatta. Ciabatta
means “slipper” in Italian; the bread
has a similarly long, wide shape.

WEAK
Oil and vinegar separate

STRONG
Oil and vinegar combine

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2019 • COOK’S COUNTRY 25
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