APRIL/MAY 2019 • COOK’S COUNTRY 19searing when cooking big cuts of
meat. You cook the meat through at
a lower temperature first and then
sear it to create a flavorful crust.
Using this method, I figured, would
allow the fat to gently render long
before the meat saw the direct heat,
minimizing flare-ups.
I placed the lamb on the cooler
side of the grill and let it cook until
it reached 120 degrees, which took
about 1½ hours. I then moved it
to the hotter side, where it seared
perfectly, acquiring a gorgeous dark
brown crust to go with its nicely
medium-rare center. Perfect.
To dress it up, I smeared my next
leg of lamb with a paste of fresh
thyme, dried oregano, coriander,
garlic, lemon zest, and plenty of salt
and pepper. I found that leaving
this powerful paste on the lamb
overnight before grilling helped
season the meat and add flavor to
the exterior.
A beautiful roast needs a beautiful
sauce, so I charred some scallions on
the grill before searing the lamb. I
then chopped them and stirred them
into a mixture of extra-virgin olive
oil, parsley, red wine vinegar, and
spicy red pepper flakes.
The cruise ship passengers
watched wistfully as I took that final
leg back into the kitchen. And as
I sliced off a bit of that juicy meat
with its dark brown, flavor-packed
crust and dipped it in some
charred-scallion sauce, I started
making plans to cook another for an
upcoming dinner party. I’d finally
mastered the flames.
Four Steps to Juicy Lamb with a Flavorful Crust
- Rub with Paste
Massage the spice paste into the lamb,
cover the lamb with plastic wrap, and
refrigerate it for at least 12 hours.
2. Grill Low and Slow
Set up the grill with hotter and cooler
zones and grill the lamb, fat side up, over
the cooler side until it’s almost done.
3. Sear over High Heat
Move the lamb to the hotter side of the
grill, fat side down, to create a flavorful
seared crust.
4. Carve into Thin Slices
Starting at the widest part of the lamb,
thinly slice at a 45-degree angle toward
the exposed bone end.
GRILLED BONE-IN LEG OF LAMB
WITH CHARRED-SCALLION SAUCE
Serves 10 to 12
The seasoned meat must be refrigerated
for at least 12 hours before cooking. For
an accurate temperature reading in step 5,
insert your thermometer into the thickest
part of the leg until you hit bone, then
pull it about ½ inch away from the bone.LAMB
12 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1½ tablespoons pepper
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon dried oregano
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 (8-pound) bone-in leg of lamb, trimmedSCALLION SAUCE
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon pepper
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
12 scallions, trimmed- FOR THE LAMB: Combine garlic,
oil, salt, pepper, thyme, oregano, lemon
zest, and coriander in bowl. Place lamb
on rimmed baking sheet and rub all over
with garlic paste. Cover with plastic
wrap and refrigerate for at least 12 hours
or up to 24 hours. - FOR THE SCALLION SAUCE:
Combine oil, parsley, vinegar, garlic,
pepper, salt, and pepper flakes in bowl;
set aside.
3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent completely. Light
large chimney starter filled with char-
coal briquettes (6 quarts). When top
coals are partially covered with ash,
pour evenly over half of grill. Set cook-
ing grate in place, cover, and open lid
vent completely. Heat grill until hot,
about 5 minutes.
3B. FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all
burners to high, cover, and heat grill
until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave pri-
mary burner on high and turn off other
burner(s). (Adjust primary burner [or, if
using 3-burner grill, primary burner and
second burner] as needed to maintain
grill temperature between 350 and
400 degrees.)- Clean and oil cooking grate. Place
scallions on hotter side of grill. Cook
(covered if using gas) until lightly
charred on both sides, about 3 minutes
per side. Transfer scallions to plate. - Uncover lamb and place fat side up
on cooler side of grill, parallel to fire. (If
using gas, it may be necessary to angle
thicker end of lamb toward hotter side of
grill to fit.) Cover grill (position lid vent
directly over lamb if using charcoal) and
cook until thickest part of meat (½ inch
from bone) registers 120 degrees,
1¼ hours to 1¾ hours. - Transfer lamb, fat side down, to hotter
side of grill. Cook (covered if using gas)
until fat side is well browned, 7 to 9 min-
utes. Transfer lamb to carving board, fat
side up, and tent with aluminum foil. Let
rest for 30 minutes. - Cut scallions into ½-inch pieces, then
stir into reserved oil mixture. Season
sauce with salt and pepper to taste. Slice
lamb thin and serve with sauce.
The Case for Bone-In
Would a boneless leg of lamb be
easier to cook evenly and carve
perfectly? Yes. So why go bone-in
here? The practical reasons are that
boneless roasts come in netting
that you have to cut away (it is not
grill-safe), necessitating tying with
twine. Also, a bone-in leg gives you
a range of doneness throughout
the roast to please all tastes. But
mostly it comes down to the grand,
festive look of a whole bone-in leg.
The cut is also a nod to earlier times
when animals were butchered more
simply and large cuts were cooked
over a live fire, as in this recipe. Go
all out—go for a bone-in leg of lamb.