Cheese
T
here’s a world of
difference between a
young, immature cheese
and a skilfully ripened
cheese in perfect condition.
Controlling this wonderful
transformation is a crucial step
in the cheesemaking process, and
requires skill, patience, careful
observation and a special empathy.
In Europe, the link between
cheesemaker and customer is
traditionally undertaken by an
expert. Known as an affineur in
France and stagionatura in Italy,
the job involves selecting young
cheese to mature in temperature-
and humidity-controlled cellars
thriving with unique local moulds
and bacteria until they reach their
optimum potential. Many of the
well-known benchmarks have strict
regulations on how and where
they’re matured to ensure their
authentic regional character,
their terroir, isn’t compromised.
In Italy the integrity of the
country’s Parmigiano-Reggianodepends on all cheese bearing the
famous name being matured on
wooden shelves in Consortium-
approved maturation centres in
the region for at least 12 months.
In France, Roquefort must be
transported from local dairies to
ripen in the famous caves beneath
the Cambalou plateau for several
weeks, and is then held in cool
cellars for a minimum of 90 days
in a strictly defined region
before sale.
But in Australia there are no
such constraints or traditions.
So much hard work goes into
making artisan cheeses, it’s a
shame when they’re not matured
to their best. But all too often this
is the case, particularly with harder
local cheese types. A lack of time
and financial resources results
in their regional characteristics
being compromised.
In recent years a growing
number of inner-city cheese shops
in Australian capital cities have
replicated the conditions forripening cheeses on site. But when
Yarra Valley Dairy cheesemaker Jack
Holman launched Stone & Crow
at the end of 2015 to “move the
Australian cheese scene forward”,
he opened new opportunities for
the local industry. After converting
an old barrel room at Nolan
Vineyard in the Yarra Valley,
Holman has been working with a
number of Victorian producers to
demonstrate what a difference the
ideal maturation conditions can
make to texture, flavour and scent.
One of the most outstanding
examples is the transformation of
Annie Baxter, a semi-hard cheese
from Shaw River Buffalo Cheese
near Port Fairy, which takes its name
from a colourful local identity who
roamed the region on horseback
in the 19th century. The farm is
well known for its pure buffalo
mozzarella and rich creamy buffalo
yoghurt, but ripening the small
production of harder cheese for just
a few months has always proved
challenging because of the limited
facilities. When Holman offered to
trial the maturation of a cloth-
bound version at Stone & Crow,
the results were a revelation. Two
months in the cellars transformed
a mild, predictable cheese into a
textural delight with mossy green
buffalo-milk flavours and a unique
sweet, nutty aftertaste.
Holman has also been applying
innovative ideas to his own range
of cheeses. One is Moonshine,
a semi-hard cow’s-milk variety.
Matured for three to six months
in the cellars, the cheese is washed
with a variety of ingredients,
Holman’s latest trial being the
brown distillate left over from
making local Four Pillars gin.
Stone & Crow is not just
about maturating hard cheese.
The sensational soft lactic curd
cheese Galactic is ripened under
a wrinkled Geotrichum mould and
has a window of perfection of just
a few days. Good cheese is a living
thing, always changing, always
offering more to the taster. ●Shaw River
Annie Baxter
buffalo-milk
cheese matured
at Stone & Crow.The ripe stuff
In a quest for perfection, Australian cheesemakers are
embracing the ageing process, writes WILL STUDD.
PHOTOGRAPHY SCOTT HAWKINS. STYLING EMMALY STEWART. AZMAYA KNIFE FROM GINKGO LEAF. STOCKISTS P176.50 GOURMET TRAVELLER