4

134 GOURMET TRAVELLER

T

oday’s food distribution systems are such that almost

all global foods are available in Japan. This has diluted

traditional culinary mores, and one ironic result of that

is an increased nostalgia for those very traditions. All

kinds of Japanese ingredients, even somewhat obscure ones from

small producers, are also now accessible throughout Japan, which

has given rise to a renewed interest and excitement about

previously regional Japanese foods.

Japan: The Cookbookis not an examination of “regional”

cooking traditions, as much as a curated experience of Japan’s

culinary framework from a specific moment in time. Using both

fine and generous strokes, I have put together what I hope is a

broad and rich picture of the food of this island nation.

Mostly, the Japanese I talked to shook their heads at the

prospect of capturing all of Japanese food between two covers.

The obstacles to such an endeavour are many, one being that the

origins of classic Japanese food came from the upper classes and

were without immediate visible regional roots. This homogeneity

also extends to “town food”, spawned from eateries in urban areas

such as Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto. Certainly local foods exist today,

but generally there is less regional variety than one would expect.

Like everywhere, modern-day Japanese rely on convenience

foods and instant preparations. Part of why I immerse myself in

Japanese cuisine is to advocate for a look back at the traditional

and artisanal. Sourcing top Japanese ingredients, at least in the

initial learning curve time, is essential. Well-made ingredients will

be excellent teachers in and of themselves, although there is no

obligation to use every ingredient. These dishes are also written

with a baseline flavour in mind – if more salt, sweet, sour, or spice

is desired, adjust accordingly.

I believe the unique approach to Japanese food and the recipes

in this book have been replaced with quicker, more convenient

foods or cooking methods. I like to think this more traditional way

of eating and cooking is not lost – just overlooked. And it is my

hope that the recipes in this volume will speak to home cooks in

Japan and around the world, as much as they have spoken to me.

2 tbsp canola oil

600 gm boneless, skinless

chicken thighs, cut into

3cm cubes

12 fat garlic chives (about

75gm), cut into 2cm pieces

2 tbsp soy sauce

1 tbsp mirin

1 small dried chilli, thinly

sliced into rings

1 tsp gold sesame oil

(see note) or sesame oil

Steamed Japanese rice,

to serve

Stir-fried chicken and garlic chives

SERVES 6 // PREP 15 MINS // COOK 5 MINS

“This dish hinges on being smothered in garlic chives,” says Nancy

Singleton Hachisu. “Be sure to use whole chives, not just the tops.”

1 Heat canola oil in a large

heavy frying pan over high

heat until shimmering. Scrape

in chicken and stir-fry to sear all

surfaces, about 3 minutes. Add

garlic chives and reduce heat

to medium. Toss until chives are

starting to wilt, about 1 minute.

Add soy sauce, mirin and chilli,

toss to coat, then cover and

cook for 1 minute. Uncover,

add sesame oil and cook for

1-2 more minutes to reduce

liquid. Serve with rice.

NoteGold sesame oil is made

from gold sesame seeds.

Singleton Hachisu recommends

Wadaman gold sesame oil,

available online. PORTRAIT COURTESY OF NANCY SINGLETON HACHISU