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The restaurant stocks 1,200 bottles of
140 different vintages from 40 Texas win-
eries. Cabernet Grill’s wine reserves—
likely the most extensive in the state for
a restaurant—illustrate Texas vintners’
resourcefulness and willingness to ex-
periment, which was born out of neces-
sity. “When they started planting grapes
in Texas, they planted grapes from Cali-
fornia,” Burtwell says. “We don’t have
the same conditions as California.” In
the search for more appropriate grapes,
winemakers went to Italy and Spain. The
Texas-like climates and soil conditions in
those locales led to planting lesser-known
varietals like piquepoul, tempranillo, and
tannat. “Our wine list is constantly evolv-
ing,” Burtwell says. “Texas winemakers
are trying all kinds of different varietals.”
Even with Cabernet Grill’s national
recognition, wine director Elizabeth
Rodriguez instills a “no wine snobs al-
lowed” ethos among the staff. Rodri-
guez started out in the hospitality indus-
try by cleaning tables at a barbecue joint
as a teenager. She came to Cabernet Grill
in 2005 as a server and started learn-
ing about wine. Encouraged by Burtwell,
she educated herself by visiting local
wineries and winemakers before even-
tually earning her sommelier certifica-
tion. Now, Rodriguez conducts Satur-
day roundtables with the wait staff that
include blind tastings of new offerings,
“because they have to be excited about it
to sell it.”
She relishes defending the Texas-only
wine list to guests unfamiliar with the
state’s award-winning vintages. “People
say they don’t like any Texas wine,” she
says. “We take it as a challenge.” Winning
guests over also lies in affordable prices:
all but a few bottles cost $30 to $65 and
glasses range from $7 to $16.
As waiters pour wine flights, they take
great care in explaining to guests the dif-
ferent varietals, wineries, and vineyards.
Suggesting wine pairings for dishes, they
follow Rodriguez’s principle: “Sometimes,
the wine by itself or the food by itself is
not so great, but putting them together
makes it great.”
Pursuit of such greatness starts with
Cabernet Grill’s innovative appetizers. A
waiter may recommend the chilly viog-
nier from Hilmy Cellars to temper the ser-
rano-infused relish on the pecan-crusted
crab. The coconut-lime soup spiked with
curry and topped with Texas Gulf shrimp
pairs well with William Chris Vineyards’
Mary Ruth white blend. A heavier dish
like the chicken-fried rib-eye topped withlobster and Hatch-chile gravy is enhanced
by Becker Vineyards’ Merlot Reserve, full-
bodied and sold only to restaurants. Bend-
ing Branch Winery’s dry tannat comple-
ments a medium-rare slice of sous-vide
short rib.
A native stone fireplace dominates
the main dining room. Thoughtful décor
touches include chandeliers fashioned
by Burtwell and his daughter from West
Texas irrigation wheels and stained glass
renderings of Hill Country pastoral scenes
by local artisan Merryl Redding. The cov-
ered patio and shaded courtyard are bor-
dered by wine barrels and illuminated by
strings of lights.
Surrounding the courtyard are 14 log
cabins and cottages for overnight guests.
The 19th-century cabins were shipped
from Kentucky and Tennessee and reas-
sembled. The recently debuted stone cot-
tages include wine chillers, as visiting
wineries is a requisite part of a Hill Coun-
try excursion.
“Texas wines have come a long way,”
Rodriguez says. “And customers are now
taking Texas wines seriously and are open
to exploration.”FROM LEFT: Executive chef and
owner Ross Burtwell (right) with
his son and sous chef, Hunter;
the exterior; Niman Ranch sous-
vide beef short rib.