2

FORGE

white files generally tend to work better for tracing.
You’ll need to import the image, and then use the Path

Trace Bitmap > Edge Detection command to trace the
image’s outline. Play around with the threshold setting
until the preview shows you something you’re happy
with, (normally, you want to get the threshold as high as
possible for a clearer set of paths). Click OK, and then
delete the original image from behind the newly-created
paths. Once you’ve done this, you might end up with
double lines (a quirk of
the way Inkscape traces
outlines), so zoom in and
delete anything you don’t
want cut, (it can be easier
to do this stage in QCAD,
as the individual paths are
easier to see when they
aren’t filled in).
If you’re designing
something custom to cut, QCAD may be easier,
especially if you’re not well-versed in graphics software.
Draw out the design you want with the tools on the
left-hand side of the window, (again bearing in mind that
anything inside the outermost line won’t show up – use
stencil fonts to help with this).
When you’ve got a design you’re happy with, draw
an outline as big as you want the stencil. Position the
image in the middle, leaving about 25mm safety margin
around the actual image (you’ll need to hold/support it
when applying). Save it as a DXF file, (or whatever your
laser-cutter software accepts).
You’ll need to import the design into your laser-cutter
software, and select an appropriate cutting speed and
power. We successfully cut our X mm Mylar at about
50% power and 100 mm s-1 on a 30 W cutter. Position
your design, and get cutting.
After your design is finished, the next step is to wash
it thoroughly, if you’re applying it directly to food. Wash it
with hot water and washing up liquid several times, (not
with a dishwasher though – it’s likely to do funny things
to the plastic).

STENCILLED SNACKS

Now all that remains is to use the stencil. If you’re

painting, lay your stencil so it is as flush to the

material as possible. You might want to use some

small weights to keep the stencil pressed down.

Use a food paintbrush, (available from any cooking

shop) to paint through some adhesive – golden syrup,

warm glucose syrup, honey, or sieved jam work well.

Then, remove your stencil and sprinkle on whatever

you want to stick to the

food. Let the adhesive

dry for ten minutes,

and gently touch up any

problem areas.

BE YOUR OWN

BARISTA

If you’re sprinkling

powder directly on to

your food, hold the stencil as low as possible without

touching, for a clearer image. Sprinkle fine powders

through a sieve to get even distribution. And that’s

it! Go mad with designs, see what works, and what

doesn’t, and play around!

Above

Picking the bits out

can be a little tricky

• you can usually
  double-click in QCAD
  to select an entire set
  of paths in one go

After your design is finished,

the next step is to wash it

thoroughly, if you’re applying

it directly to food.

”

”

Above

This is the tracing box in Inkscape. As well as converting your

image to outline paths, it also has a few other options which can

be good for manipulating bitmap images

Below

This cake was made

by painting watered-

down glucose

through a Mylar

stencil onto roll out

icing, and applying

green sugar crystals

Mylar is a great

material for all sorts of

projects. It’s often used

to make solder paste

stencils for surface

mount circuit boards,

for example.

QUICK TIP