The Washington Post - 18.09.2019

E8 EZ EE THE WASHINGTON POST.WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 18 , 2019

much water out of it as possible.

Don’t be timid about the squeeze

either — you want to put some

hand pressure into it as it sits in

a strainer — or you can put it

into a cheesecloth and twist to

expel the water that way.

Once baked, the pancake

emerges from the oven golden

and fragrant, ready to be

dolloped with the most heavenly,

creamy yogurt-feta sauce that’s

flecked with fresh dill. It makes

for a wonderful brunch or lunch

main course and can also be

served as one of an array of small

plates for dinner or a party.

[email protected]

Krieger is a registered dietitian,

nutritionist and author who hosts

public television’s “Ellie’s Real Good

Food.” She blogs and offers a weekly

newsletter at elliekrieger.com.

I originally came
up with this
savory skillet
pancake as a way
to make a dent in
the many pounds
of zucchini a
friend gifted me
from her garden,
but it is now a
perennial favorite.
In it, shredded zucchini, the star
here, is mixed with just enough
egg and flour to bind it into a
tender pancake. The batter is
poured into a skillet and then is
baked, not fried, as zucchini
pancakes tend to be, making it
more healthful and far less
messy than using the stove top.
The trick to making the
pancake tender — not soggy — is
to salt the shredded zucchini a
bit, let it drain for fifteen
minutes, and then squeeze as

RECIPE FINDER.SEARCH MORE THAN 8,700 POST­TESTED

RECIPES AT WASHINGTONPOST.COM/RECIPES.

RECIPE QUESTIONS? EMAIL [email protected]

BY JEFF KOEHLER

Moroccan cuisine is colorful,
sophisticated and always artfully
presented. “First, we eat with the
eyes,” goes one particularly tell-
ing expression.
It is also often meat-rich. Suc-
culent slow-cooked lamb tagines
with dried fruits and a heady
melange of spices (ginger, cinna-
mon, turmeric, sweet paprika,
saffron) and chicken with pre-
served lemon and olives are
among its signature dishes. And
while “seven vegetable couscous”
is something of a national dish —
and does indeed include seven
types of vegetables — the broth is
usually flavored with meat and
bones. Ditto for harira, the silky
tomato, lentil and chickpea soup
that many eat daily during Rama-
dan. Much the same can be said
for numerous vegetable-
dominated dishes.
Ye t, especially for guests and
on special occasions, it is an array
of vegetarian salads that open
meals — often in spectacular
fashion.
According to traditional Mo-
roccan hospitality, explain the
dadas (traditional female cooks)
of La Maison Arabe, the legend-
ary restaurant and hotel in Mar-
rakesh, the more choices one
offers a guest, the higher one’s
esteem for him or her. It is a
measure of one’s hospitality.
The range of what a host might
offer is wide and, depending on
the season, can include chilled
caramelized cubes of butternut
squash dusted with cinnamon;
mashed eggplant and tomato
zaalouk with plenty of garlic and
maybe some hot paprika; flame-
grilled green peppers tossed with
chopped tomatoes, herbs and
some preserved lemon peel; and
cucumbers in a sweet marinade
given a scattering of dried wild
thyme before serving.
This course of fresh and
“cooked” salads is one of the
country’s most delectable culi-
nary traditions and offers an ideal
showcase for not just the cook’s
ability but the cuisine’s originali-
ty. After 20 years of traveling in
Morocco, I continue to be awe-
struck by the impressive salad
spreads on the tables from the
seaside capital city Rabat to Ber-
ber villages in the High Atlas to
humble places in the desert
south.
Or on its most exclusive. At the
restaurant in the Royal Mansour,
a hotel owned by King Moham-
med VI that acts as something of
an unofficial extension to his
palace in Marrakesh, I tasted
regal sophistication with salads.
Dinner began one evening with
seven of them, each distinct in
flavor, color and texture: orange
segments individually wrapped
with slivers of beet root; mashed
caramelized pumpkin with
plump Medjool dates from a
southeastern oasis; mallow
jazzed up with preserved lemons
and marinated olives from the
souk; and, in the tradition of
persistent refinement in the pal-
ace kitchen, spinach leaves with
orange blossom foam and a pinch
of ground cinnamon.
While the dadas of La Maison
Arabe stress fresh, seasonal in-
gredients when deciding on
which salads to prepare, con-
trasts in flavors, colors and tex-
tures are also key.
To highlight this, the salad
selection often includes versions
that use the same principal ingre-
dient. For instance, a dish of

tangy beets with plenty of fresh

cilantro and parsley might ap-

pear beside a sweet one of beets

tossed with orange segments and

a hint of orange blossom water.

My favorite coupling is with

carrots. One classic savory salad

is rounds of boiled carrots tossed

with olive oil, sweet paprika and

plenty of cumin. This is chilled

and given a squeeze of lemon

juice and a scattering of fresh

flat-leaf parsley before serving.

The carrot’s natural sweetness

balances the bold and earthy

punch of spice. Ideally, beside it

comes a bowl of grated raw car-

rots steeped in freshly squeezed

orange juice, garnished with rai-

sins and then given a dash of

orange blossom water and a

pinch of ground cinnamon for

aroma. The texture has a pleasing

crunch, and the flavors are fresh

and fruity. (To continue the play-

ful combination, beside it might

be a plate of orange segments

tossed in oil — olive, walnut or

even Moroccan argan — and gar-

nished with black olives.)

Whenever possible, I have a

whole meal of these salads. With

some of the country’s traditional

round loaves of bread, there are

few things I would prefer for

lunch or dinner when traveling in

Morocco.

Or even back home. I like to

prepare a half-dozen salads to

savor over several days, either

together for light meals with

bread or as sides to something

heavier.

Like many families, we tend to

entertain more in the summer,

and light the grill when there is a

crowd. On such occasions, my

go-to choice for dinner is a wide

array of Moroccan salads to ac-

company whatever protein we

choose. A range of sweet and

savory salads always pair well, no

matter if we grill fresh sardines,

skewers of marinated chicken or

lamb chops. Everyone is sure to

like at least a couple of the salad

options, and they equally satisfy

our vegetarian and non-

vegetarian guests.

For the uninitiated, there is

also festive pleasure in discover-

ing these original flavor combina-

tions. Tasting carrots and orange

juice for the first time, or oranges

with a savory oil and black olives,

is pure joy.

While the eyes might be the

first to feast on the colorful array

of salads on the table, the palate

follows soon after. And the plea-

sures of the palate are even great-

er with these salads.

[email protected]

Koehler is the author of numerous

books, including, “Morocco: A Culinary

Journey with Recipes from the Spice-

Scented Markets of Marrakech to the

Date-Filled Oasis of Zagora”

(Chronicle Books, 2012).

Moroccan hospitality starts with an abundant palette of salads

Orange Salad With Black Olives

4 servings (makes 1^1 / 2 cups)

Nutty-flavored oils, such as walnut, hazelnut or, ideally, Moroccan

argan — which is pressed from the seeds of a spiny tree native to

southwestern Morocco and commonly found in health and beauty

products — b eautifully highlight the light citrus flavors in this salad. Be

sure to use a culinary argan oil.

Recipes from food writer and cookbook author Jeff Koehler.

Ingredients

l2 navel or Valencia oranges

l 11 / 2 tablespoons extra-virgin

olive oil (may substitute

walnut, hazelnut or culinary

argan oil; see headnote)

l2 teaspoons minced fresh flat-

leaf parsley

lKosher salt or sea salt

lFreshly ground black pepper

(optional)

l16 black olives, pitted and cut

in half (preferably oil-cured

Moroccan olives; may

substitute kalamata)

Steps

lTrim off the top and bottom

ends of the oranges and reserve.

Using a paring knife, remove

the orange peel, along with any

of the white pith. Cut the

oranges crosswise into^1 / 2 -inch-

thick slices. Over a large bowl,

pull the segments into triangu-

lar pieces and then drop into

the bowl. Squeeze the reserved

ends into the bowl as well.

lDrizzle the oil over the oranges,

then add the parsley and season

lightly with salt and, if using,

pepper. To ss gently to combine.

Cover and refrigerate until

chilled, about 1 hour. Before

serving, toss again and garnish

with the olives.

Nutrition | Per serving: 100 calories, 0 g

protein, 10 g carbohydrates, 8 g fat, 1 g

saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 150 mg

sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 6 g sugar

Recipe tested by Barbara Strack; email

questions to [email protected]

Flame-Grilled

Green Pepper and

Fresh Tomato Salad

4 servings (makes 2 cups)

Called tchektchouka (or

chakchouka), this favorite salad

combines the smokiness of

grilled peppers with the summery

freshness of tomatoes. Grill the

peppers over a gas flame, on a

charcoal grill or under a broiler.

Serve at room temperature or

chilled. Stir in a tablespoon of

finely chopped preserved lemon

for a zesty touch.

Ingredients

l2 medium green bell peppers,

rinsed and patted dry

l2 ripe medium tomatoes,

peeled, seeded and cut into^1 / 2 -

inch chunks (see NOTE)

l1 small clove garlic, minced

l1 tablespoon finely chopped

fresh flat-leaf parsley

l1 tablespoon finely chopped

fresh cilantro

lPinch ground cumin

l^1 / 4 teaspoon sweet paprika

lKosher salt or sea salt

lFreshly ground black pepper

l2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive

oil

l1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Steps

lWash the peppers and pat dry

with a paper towel. Roast over a

gas flame on the stove, under a

broiler or on a grill, turning as

the skin blackens and blisters, 8

to 15 minutes.

lCover the peppers with alumi-

num foil or newspaper and al-

low to cool, 10 to 15 minutes.

(The steam will make peeling

easier.) Peel away the blackened

skin and rinse. Remove the

stems and seeds, and cut the

peppers into^1 / 2 -inch square

pieces.

lIn a large bowl, combine the

peppers, tomatoes, garlic, pars-

ley, cilantro, cumin and papri-

ka. Season with the salt and

pepper, drizzle the oil over, and

gently toss to combine. Cover

and refrigerate until chilled.

lWhen ready to serve, add the

lemon juice and gently toss

again.

lNOTE: Peel the tomatoes by

scoring their bottoms with a

wide, shallow “X,” then drop-

ping them into boiling water for

about 15 seconds. Lift out of the

water; as soon as they are cool

enough to handle, peel and dis-

card the skins.

Nutrition | Per serving: 90 calories, 1 g

protein, 6 g carbohydrates, 7 g fat, 1 g

saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 40 mg

sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 3 g sugar

Recipe tested by Barbara Strack; email

questions to [email protected]

Chickpea Salad With Red Pepper,

Cucumber and Mint

4 servings (makes about 5^1 / 2 cups)

This vibrant salad is full of body, texture and color, and features a

delightful balance of tang and minty herbal aromas.

Ingredients

l3 cups low-sodium cooked

chickpeas (from two 14.5-ounce

cans)

l5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive

oil

l1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice,

or more as needed

lKosher salt or sea salt

lFreshly ground black pepper

l^1 / 4 red bell pepper, cored,

deribbed, seeded and cut into

small dice

l1 medium cucumber, seeded, or

(^1) / 2 seedless cucumber, peeled
and cut into small dice
l^1 / 4 cup packed, minced fresh
mint leaves
Steps
lRinse and drain the chickpeas;
transfer to a large saucepan and
add 2 cups water. Bring to a boil
over medium-high heat, then
drain in a colander until cool.
lIn a large serving bowl, whisk
together the oil and lemon juice
until well blended. Season light-
ly with the salt and pepper. Add
the drained chickpeas, along
with the red bell pepper and
cucumber. To ss gently to incor-
porate. Ta ste, and add more
salt, if needed.
lStir in the mint just before
serving.
Nutrition | Per serving: 320 calories, 10 g
protein, 28 g carbohydrates, 21 g fat, 3 g
saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 280 mg
sodium, 9 g dietary fiber, 6 g sugar
Recipe tested by Jacob Brogan; email
questions to [email protected]
STACY ZARIN GOLDBERG FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; FOOD STYLING BY LISA CHERKASKY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
Clockwise from left: Orange Salad With Black Olives; Chickpea Salad With Red Pepper, Cucumber and Mint; and Flame-Grilled Green
Pepper and Fresh Tomato Salad.
For a crisp pancake,
squash some zucchini
STACY ZARIN GOLDBERG FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; FOOD STYLING BY LISA CHERKASKY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Ellie

Krieger

NOURISH

Big Zucchini Pancake

With Yogurt-Feta

Sauce

6 servings

MAKE AHEAD: The pancake is

best served just-cooked, but it can

be made 1 to 2 days ahead and

reheated in a 350-degree oven.

The sauce may be made up to 3

days ahead and refrigerated.

From nutritionist and cook-

book author Ellie Krieger.

Ingredients

For the sauce

l^1 / 2 cup plain Greek yogurt

(whole milk or low-fat)

l^1 / 3 cup crumbled feta cheese

(1^3 / 4 ounces)

l1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

fronds

l1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

l^1 / 2 teaspoon extra-virgin olive

oil

l^1 / 2 small clove garlic, finely

grated or minced

For the pancake

l1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive

oil, plus more for coating the

pan

l2 medium zucchini (1 pound

total), coarsely grated

l^1 / 2 teaspoon kosher salt

l2 large eggs

l^1 / 2 medium onion, coarsely

grated and drained

l^1 / 3 cup whole-wheat pastry

flour or all-purpose flour

l1 teaspoon baking powder

l^1 / 4 teaspoon freshly ground

black pepper

Steps

lMake the sauce: In a medium

bowl, stir together the yogurt,

feta, dill, lemon juice, olive oil

and garlic. Refrigerate while

you make the pancake.

lMake the pancake: Preheat the

oven to 375 degrees; position

the rack in the middle. Brush a

10-inch, ovenproof nonstick or

cast-iron s killet with a thin coat

of oil.

lTo ss the zucchini with^1 / 4 tea-

spoon salt in a colander set over

a bowl and let drain for 15

minutes. With your hands,

squeeze as much water as possi-

ble out of the zucchini. (You can

save the water for another use,

such as a soup, stew or stock.)

lIn a medium bowl, whisk the

eggs, then add the strained

zucchini and onion. Add the

flour, 1 tablespoon oil, baking

powder, the remaining^1 / 4 tea-

spoon salt and the pepper and

stir to combine. Pour the batter

into the greased skillet and

spread it evenly with a spoon.

lBake, about 30 minutes, until

the pancake is set in the middle,

browned on the edges and is

golden brown on top. Transfer

the pancake to a cutting board

and allow to rest for 5 minutes

before cutting into wedges.

Serve right away with a dollop

of the sauce o n top or alongside.

Nutrition | Per serving: 192 calories, 10 g

protein, 20 g carbohydrates, 8 g fat, 3 g

saturated fat, 119 mg cholesterol, 224 mg

sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 4 g sugar

Recipe tested by Jacob Brogan and Barbara

Strack; email questions to

[email protected]