FORGE
grease back on. We have got to the stage where
our wall is sugar-soaped. To prep the surface, use
a mix called ‘acid-free primer’. You can pick this up
at beauty stores for around £5. Paint a thin layer on,
and you will see the nail turn matte as it dries. We
have a prepared nail!
CHOOSE YOUR ACRYLIC
The next stage is to apply a base layer of acrylic. This
will be a thin layer so that we have a smooth surface
to put the light or data tag on. If it turns out bumpy,
we can file it.
There are two options here – acrylic liquid and
powder, or acrylic gel. The process is similar in that
both make a blob of plastic that’s mouldable over the
nail, but the liquid and powder sets in the air, while
the gel sets under a UV lamp. The liquid and powder
is cheaper than the gel, however, you only get
seconds to shape the blob, whereas with the gel you
get as long as you want.
PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT!
If you have set A (liquid and powder), you will want
to practice this a few times in a well-ventilated space.
Put the liquid in the glass dappen dish, and open the
pot of acrylic powder. On some waxed paper or a
silicone baking sheet, first, dip the brush in the liquid
and tap off any drips. Pull it gently across the acrylic
powder, and you will see a blob form. Push that blob
down onto your paper or sheet, and dip the brush
straight back in the liquid. Wipe the brush on some
kitchen roll. Use the brush to mould the blob by
gently tapping it until it sets. Get a feel for how
quickly it sets and how long you have to work with it.
Too much liquid will make it runny, and set too fragile,
leading to acrylic lifting off the nail or cracking. Too
much powder will make it crumbly, and set lumpy
and breakable.
If you have set B (gel and UV lamp), you just need
to put a dab of the gel on the nail, dip the brush in the
slip liquid to stop it sticking to the gel, and push it into
shape, before curing under the lamp for the time
stated on the packaging.
APPLY THE BASE LAYER
When you’re ready, apply a small blob to your nail and
tap it out to spread it. Once it gets close to your skin,
Above
Before, during,
and after removing
the cuticle
Below
Painting primer on the nail – look for when it turns matte
YOU’LL NEED
A willing
volunteer
(or your own hands)
Paper towel to
protect your table
Nail file
Orange stick
(a blunt stick with
a flat surface)
Lint-free wipes
Isopropyl alcohol
Acid-free primer
Sable brush
(not a plastic brush)
Dappen dish
or shot glass
Silicon baking
sheet for practice
One of these
two sets:
A Acrylic powder
and acrylic
monomer liquid
B Acrylic gel,
gel slip liquid,
UV lamp 36 W
or above
The liquid and powder
sets in the air, while
the gel sets under
a UV lamp
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