46 – OCTOBER 2019
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Away – The Road to the Hot 10
Lucinda Grain Bar
SEATTLE
A small (but powerful!) mill
breaks down sorghum and
buckwheat for a fudgy gluten-
free brownie. — A.A.
Seylou
WASHINGTON, D.C.
The bakery’s 1,600-pound
mill crushes local grains for
baked goods and einkorn-
based pizza dough.
The Wolf ’s Tailor
in Denver actually
has multiple mills,
including this
KoMo model with
extremely precise
ceramic-metal
grinding burrs.
What Place Isn’t Milling
Its Own Grains?
Kitchens across the country are sacrificing counter space to make fresh-
ground grains and putting them to use in more than just bread
Root Baking Co.
ATLANTA
This palm-size morning
roll dusted with cinnamon
sugar is made from Georgia-
grown small-batch Catawba
wheat processed in a
custom 26-inch stone mill.
12
FOOD IS THE ONLy
THiNg THAT’S
gETTiNg BETTER
ABOUT AiRPORTS
Trudging off the plane at SFO after a six-hour
flight from JFK, then seeing before me, like a
ray of neon sunshine, the most unimaginable word,
TARTINE, I had to wonder: Did I die? I was,
thankfully, alive, and had deplaned at the new
Manufactory Food Hall in the international
terminal, which sells not only Tartine’s legendary
sticky buns but also chilaquiles from an outpost
of Gabriela Cámara’s Tacos Cala and Pim
Techamuanvivit’s Thai fried chicken at Kamin. Yes,
most of my flights while traveling for the Hot 10
departed from a gate at LGA serviced solely by an
Auntie Anne’s (no disrespect!), but at least there are
airports proving we don’t have to live like this. —J.K.
13
NO.
