Bon_Appetit 2019-10-01

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Some chefs finish dishes with olive oil; the

Longoven crew reaches for their house-made

fig leaf oil, which delivers a vanilla-like flavor.

For the first dessert, pastry chef Megan Fitzroy

Phelan turned the beloved condiment into a

sorbet paired with pickled blueberries.

COURSE 1

SNACK

“They’re good little finger foods,” says co-chef
Andrew Manning in the understatement of the
year. He makes carrot mole for the pog-size
nasturtium-covered tart; fries squid (and its ink)
into a “churro”; and layers smoked mackerel
between nori crackers for the tiniest sandwich.

“It’s kind of a play on a Caesar salad,”

Manning says—except the only thing Caesar-

ish about it is the romaine. The plate is streaked

with uni, clam-infused buttermilk dressing, and

the lettuce, which has been brushed with ramp

MAITAKE

That grated white stuff? It’s not parm; it’s scallops
that have been cured, cooked with mushroom
scraps and dashi, and then dehydrated and
shaved. Manning sprinkles the fishy snow
on charred maitake mushrooms for “a super
omega umami bomb.”

The staff loved the Meyer lemon kombucha at

family meal so much that Manning turned it

into the base of this refreshing crudo. It’s the

backdrop to yuzu-scented scallops, pickled

green strawberries, fermented radishes, and

LAMB

“It looks like something washed up ashore,”

co-chef Patrick Phelan says. But do not call it surf-

and-turf. Beneath the tangle of agretti (a chive-

like Italian vegetable), there’s roast lamb loin,

and next to it is a pool of blackened sunchoke

purée that tastes like a funky A.1. sauce.

I WAS OVER TAS

WHEN I

THOU

g

HT

JUST

ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY ELYSE INAMINE