Bon_Appetit 2019-10-01

the crumbly, deep-golden pastry
barely holding on to the squiggles of
still-juicy rhubarb in the center.
8:46A.M. Watching the guy behind
the counter make a cortado, I realize
that this is as much a Serious Coffee
Shop as it is a bakery, which makes
sense given that it’s owned by
Jessica Hicks and Dai Hughes, the
same people behind Detroit’s much-
loved Astro Coffee. I’m getting lost
in the idea that I could live in Detroit
and this could be my coffee shop
and I could eat this Danish every
morning when...
8:57A.M. My plate of scrambled eggs
shows up, but to call it a plate of
scrambled eggs is kind of rude given
that it’s eggs softly scrambled with
turmeric; tzatziki with slivers of
kohlrabi; a big pile of bitter greens;
a very generous serving of very good
butter; two holey slices of country
bread; and a tiny handmade ceramic
bowl of cumin seeds, Aleppo-style
pepper, and flaky salt that I can
sprinkle over whatever I like.
8:58A.M. Can we talk about this
bread? I was so fixated on the
pastry case, I didn’t notice the room
behind the counter where cult local
baker Max Leonard babysits the
sourdoughs. So not only does this
place turn out pastries and coffee
and savory food at the highest level,
but there’s also a high-key bread
program?
9:18A.M. I’m the person taking
pictures of the blue and ochre (duh)
tiles hand-painted by Hicks.
9:28A.M. Yeah, I’m going to need
a slice of the lemon-pistachio loaf
cake, a piece of the chocolate
banana bread, and one of every
cookie (espresso shortbread,
chocolate-hazelnut, oaty Anzac) to
go. Or maybe I’ll just never leave.
—J.K.

Chocolate-Hazelnut Cookies

MAKES ABOUT 2½ DOZEN The raw

sugar gives these cookies a subtle crunch

in every bite, but you can replace it

with an equal amount of white sugar if

needed. And trust us on the big pieces

of chocolate: The matchsticks are what

give these cookies their melty stripes.

¾ cup blanched hazelnuts

3½ cups all-purpose flour

1 tsp. kosher salt

¾ tsp. baking powder

½ tsp. baking soda

½ tsp. ground ginger

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter,

room temperature

½ cup granulated sugar

½ cup raw sugar or granulated sugar

½ cup (packed) light brown sugar

2 large eggs, room temperature

¼ cup honey

½ tsp. vanilla extract

4 2-oz. bittersweet chocolate bars,

cut lengthwise into ¼"-thick

sticks

Flaky sea salt

Place racks in upper and lower thirds of

oven; preheat to 300°. Toast hazelnuts

on a rimmed baking sheet on upper rack,

tossing halfway through, until golden

brown, 8–10 minutes. Let cool slightly,

then chop very coarsely; set aside.

Increase oven temperature to 350°.

Whisk flour, kosher salt, baking

powder, baking soda, and ginger in a

large bowl to combine. Beat butter,

granulated sugar, raw sugar, and brown

sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer

fitted with the paddle attachment on high

speed, scraping down sides of bowl

occasionally, until pale and fluffy, 5–7

minutes. Reduce speed to medium-high

and add eggs, one at a time, increasing

speed to high after each addition to fully

incorporate and stopping periodically

to scrape down sides of bowl. Add honey

and vanilla and beat just to combine.

Reduce speed to low and add dry

ingredients; beat until combined. Add

chocolate and reserved nuts and beat

just until incorporated.

Scoop dough into 1½-oz. portions

(about 3 Tbsp.); roll into balls (if the batter

feels loose or sticky, chill 30 minutes).

Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet.

Chill until firm, at least 2 hours.

Arrange chilled cookies on 2 fresh

parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing

2" apart; you should be able to fit about

12 cookies on each. Sprinkle cookies

with sea salt. Bake, rotating top to bottom

and front to back halfway through, until

bottoms and edges are golden brown,

12–15 minutes. Let cool on baking

sheets. Place a fresh sheet of parchment

on 1 baking sheet and repeat process

with remaining balls of dough.

DO AHEAD: Dough can be made

1 month ahead. Transfer chilled balls to

resealable freezer bags and freeze.

Bake from frozen.

Spiced Eggs With Tzatziki

4 SERVINGS Preground curry powder

can go musty quickly. If your jar

isn’t fresh, replace it for the sake of

these buttery, fast-scrambled eggs.

2 tsp. cumin seeds

1 Tbsp. flaky sea salt

2 tsp. Aleppo-style pepper

1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt

½ cup finely chopped English

hothouse cucumber

1 garlic clove, finely grated

1 Tbsp. finely chopped mint, plus

leaves for serving

1¾ tsp. kosher salt, divided

8 large eggs

¼ cup heavy cream

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter

2 tsp. curry powder

Parsley leaves with tender stems

and dill sprigs (for serving)

Toast cumin in a dry small skillet over

medium heat, tossing, until slightly

darkened and fragrant, about 2 minutes.

Transfer to a small bowl; let cool. Mix in sea

salt and Aleppo-style pepper; set aside.

Mix yogurt, cucumber, garlic,

chopped mint, and ¾ tsp. kosher salt in

a medium bowl; set tzatziki aside.

Whisk eggs, cream, and remaining

1 tsp. kosher salt in another medium

bowl until very well combined. Heat

butter in a medium nonstick skillet over

medium until starting to foam. Add

curry powder and cook, stirring, until

fragrant and darkened in color, about

10 seconds. Pour in egg mixture and let

eggs cook, undisturbed, until edges have

just set, then scramble, tilting pan and

turning eggs over onto themselves, until

just cooked through, about 2 minutes.

Transfer eggs to a plate. Spoon

reserved tzatziki alongside. Top with mint

leaves, parsley leaves, and dill sprigs;

sprinkle reserved spice mixture over.

DO AHEAD: Tzatziki (without mint and

cucumber) can be made 1 week ahead

(the garlic flavor will intensify as it sits).

Cover and chill.

8:43 A.M.

I’M AT OCHRE

BAKERy, AND THE

FiRST THiN

g

I’M EATiNg TODAy

IS A DANiSH,