Cook_s_Country_-_October_2019

(Frankie) #1

2 COOK’S COUNTRY • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2019


ASK COOK’S COUNTRY

by Cecelia Jenkins and Morgan Bolling


Name That Spud
Are “gold” and “yellow”
potatoes the same as Yukon
Gold potatoes?
–Carl Kelton, Bend, Ore.

According to the Potato Associa-
tion of America, potatoes labeled
as “yellow” and “gold” both
belong to the broad category of
yellow-fl eshed potato that encom-
passes many varieties. Similarly,
potatoes labeled as “white” refer to
the broad category of potato vari-
eties with white interiors. Potato
packaging often specifi es only the
interior fl esh color of the potatoes
and not the specifi c variety.
The Yukon Gold potato, though
yellow fl eshed, is a cross between
a yellow and a white potato and is
usually labeled as such. A “yellow”
or “gold” potato is not a Yukon
Gold potato, but all three potatoes
have similar starch contents and
fl avors and can be used interchange-
ably in recipes.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Potato labels
refer to the color of the potatoes’
fl esh; potatoes labeled “gold” or
“yellow” are not Yukon Gold pota-
toes, but they can be used in place
of Yukon Gold potatoes in recipes.

Easy Onion Dicing


Cooking shows make dicing onions seem easy, but I feel unsafe cutting
horizontally into the side of a halved onion. Is there an easier/safer way?


–Kristin Morse, Portland, Maine


We often dice onions according to the method you described: Halve and peel the
onion, slice each onion half horizontally, slice downward north to south, and then
slice downward again east to west. But there are two other methods that you might
feel more comfortable with.
Method 1: Halve the onion through the root end, trim and discard the stem end
of each half, peel the halves, and then make a series of radial cuts, stopping just short
of the root end. Slice across the radial cuts to create even-size pieces.
Method 2: Halve the onion through the root end, trim and discard the stem end
of each half, and peel the halves. Cut onion into quarters through root end. Work-
ing with one quarter at a time, set it on one fl at side and make a series of parallel
cuts, stopping short of root. Flip the quarter on its second fl at side and make another
series of parallel cuts. Turn quarter and slice perpendicular to parallel cuts to create
even-size pieces.
THEBOTTOM LINE: There are many ways to dice an onion; here are two easy options.


Small-Batch
Stock
Can I use a single leftover
rotisserie chicken carcass to
make stock?
–Chris Deer, Dallas, Texas

Not everyone has the fore-
thought—or freezer space—to
save up pounds of raw chicken
parts (backs, wingtips, etc.)
to make a full-size batch of
stock. Having found that an
average rotisserie chicken
carcass (including the skin and
any jellied bits) weighs about
1 pound, we added it to a large
saucepan with 5 cups of water,
half an onion, and a bay leaf
and simmered it for 30 minutes.
The resulting quart of stock
tasted fl avorful and richer than
stock we typically make from
unroasted chicken parts.
THE BOTTOM LINE: You can
make about a quart of fl avor-
ful chicken stock from a single
chicken carcass. Be sure to taste
the stock before adding salt
because the rotisserie chicken
has already been seasoned.


  1. Halve onion through root end, trim stem
    end, and peel. Cut onion into quarters.
    2. Set 1 quarter on fl at side and make series
    of parallel cuts, stopping short of root end.

  2. Halve onion through root end, trim stem
    end, and peel. Make series of radial cuts.
    2. Slice across radial cuts to create
    even-size pieces.


Method 2: Working with Onion Quarters


Method 1: Working with Onion Halves



  1. Flip quarter onto other fl at side and
    make another series of parallel cuts.
    4. Slice onion perpendicular to parallel cuts
    to get even-size pieces.


A Honey of a Fruit
What is a persimmon?
–Denise Wheelus, Rye, N.Y.

Persimmons are tree fruits native to Asia that also thrive in California
and the southern United States. There are many varieties, but the two
types you’re most likely to see at the supermarket, typically in the fall,
are Hachiya and
Fuyu. Hachiyas
are acorn-shaped,
while Fuyus are
tomato-shaped.
Both have
red-orange skin,
though Hachiyas
tend to be redder
and Fuyus are often
a brighter orange.
Ripe persimmons
have a soft, cus-
tardy texture. Both
varieties have similar sweet, “honey-like” fl avors that one taster described
as a cross between “a pumpkin and a plum.” Hachiyas are astringent, so
they must fully ripen—they should be soft and squishy—before they can
be eaten or they will dry out your mouth and leave a harsh, bitter taste.
Fuyus are nonastringent, so they can be eaten while still fi rm, though
we prefer them a little softer. Both varieties should be ripened at room
temperature, and they can be cooked into jams, quick breads, cakes, or
persimmon pudding.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Persimmons are sweet fruits with lusciously creamy
textures when ripe. They are available in the fall months.
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