The Grand Food Bargain

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 Unexpected Consequences


obstacles that threaten their survival. In the pathogens’ world, time is
meaningless, natural selection is eternal, and the modern food system
has become an ally to help them invade and reproduce. Even though
their actions can take us out, thereby depriving themselves of a suitable
host, they continue to march on. What we call “advances in science to
thwart microbes” are nothing more than temporary detours.
In the aptly titled Bad Bug Book, FDA describes the most common
and dangerous foodborne pathogens. Start with E. coli (O:H),
which became an ominous threat for humans by picking up the genes
to produce the deadly Shiga toxin. As few as ten to one hundred orga-
nisms can induce infection (ten thousand are needed to fill the head of
pin). Over time, the spores of the extremely potent neurotoxin known
as botulism (Clostridium botulinum) adapted to be heat-resistant and to
thrive in low-oxygen environments like canned foods. Listeria evolved to
be tolerant of cold temperatures and salty environments. Some natural
toxins found in fish, shellfish, and mushrooms can linger in food despite
washing, cooking, and freezing.
Among major pathogens in America, the most lethal bacteria is
Listeria. The one most likely to send you to the hospital is Salmonella.
As bacteria and parasites go, the number of Salmonella cases exceed all
others combined.
Another pathogen likely to invite itself inside your body is the nor-
ovirus. Vomiting, diarrhea, fever, and stomach cramps announce that
you are its latest residence and food source. Over a lifetime, expect
it to drop in about five times, each episode accompanied with vary-
ing severity. Norovirus travels through food, water, contaminated sur-
faces, and contact with infected individuals. Exceedingly opportunistic
and hard to eliminate, norovirus hangs out in places serving food—
restaurants, hospitals, and cruise ships. It is the leading foodborne cause
of illness, and outbreaks in the United States infecting some nineteen
to twenty-one million people each year.
Overall, between twenty-nine to seventy-one million foodborne
illnesses occur annually, which works out to be about three-quarters of
the population of California on the low end, or the population of the
thirteen Western states plus one-fifth of Texas on the high end. Of those
infected, 3,000 to 2 ,000 require hospitalization. Between , 00 and
,000 ultimately die.

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