The Grand Food Bargain

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The Perfect Formula  9

Health claims must be backed by “significant scientific agreement.”
The use of such claims is limited to products proven to reduce disease
risk. Health claims that imply a diagnosis, cure, mitigation, or treat-
ment are out of bounds. Also, wording must be precise, such as: “Three
grams of soluble fiber from oatmeal daily in a diet low in saturated fat
and cholesterol may reduce the risk of heart disease. This cereal has two
grams per serving.”
Qualified health claims require less scientific evidence and usually
include an asterisk and footnote. Wording such as “supportive but
not conclusive research” is a tip-off. Finally, structure/function claims
describe in broad strokes how ingredients can affect the normal struc-
ture or function of the body. Think of yogurt with probiotics added to
promote digestive health. Or how “calcium builds strong bodies.”
Even revered organizations like the American Heart Association are
wading into the food-labeling morass, lured by the promise of revenue.
Akin to the Marine Stewardship Council’s stamp of approval for sea-
food sustainability (discussed in chapter ), AHA now offers its own
endorsement—the AHA Heart-Check Food Certification checkmark.
Its use comes with a licensing fee, of course, and not just processed-food
manufacturers are paying up. The AHA believes consumers need their
guidance in deciding whether whole fruits and vegetables like pears and
sweet potatoes are good for health.
So are Americans more informed? Is their health getting better? Do
people understand that labels associating processed foods with better
health do not mean they actually deliver better health? Is the prolifera-
tion of health claims degrading the value of science? Or is marketing
hype making it harder to arrive at sound decisions?


The labeling morass points to a broader problem with food regulation.
Consumers assume that the government has their backs, ensuring that
food is safe. We like to think that all those unpronounceable additive
names on the ingredient list have been properly vetted. But have they?
Concerns about additives dates back to  958 , when Congress pro-
hibited adding substances “which had not been adequately tested to
establish their safety.” At that moment, some eight hundred ingre-
dients, including pepper, vinegar, salt, vegetable oil, and preservatives

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