Vanity Fair UK - 10.2019

(Grace) #1
partnerships with the world’s most prestigious yacht clubs, as well
as approximately 15 ocean contests, including the Fastnet.
Rolex’s regatta watch, the opinion-dividing Yacht-Master II
introduced in 2010, is a 44mm programmable f lyback
chronograph available in several different metals with a bright
blue Cerachrom bezel. The countdown feature is shown via a red
triangle-tipped hand on a scale of 10 to 0 in an arc that runs
around three quarters of the dial’s circumference. The watch also
accounts for the varying lengths of regatta countdowns and can
be programmed via the rotating bezel and winding crown.
For Corum, the Admiral’s Cup inspired a watch family
consisting of over 70 models in different sizes and metals.
Launched in 1960, today’s Admiral collection includes clever
complications such as the Admiral AC-One 45 Tides with an
indication showing when high and low tide will occur. For
competitive sailors who need something more obvious, Alpina’s
Sailing Yachttimer Countdown has a 44mm steel case and black
dial with clear numerals. A moving countdown window tracks
the minutes before revealing a red “START” indicator.
Possibly the most technical mechanical sailing watch on the
market is the Richard Mille RM 60-01 Regatta Automatic
Chronograph. Mille has drawn on its experience as timing partner
of Les Voiles de St. Barth to develop a timepiece with all the
functions a crew on a racing yacht could want from the rotating
bezel showing cardinal points to the flyback chronograph with
central seconds counter and 30-minute countdown timer. And
yachting hasn’t been forgotten by the digital age, with brands
from Casio to Garmin and Optimum Time jumping on board.
Breitling’s Exospace B55 Yachting is a strong and lightweight

connected chronograph with a countdown system that embraces
audio, visual and vibrating indications. Powered by a COSC-
certified, B55 SuperQuartz calibre, it can be synched to a
smartphone. The Tissot Sailing Touch is also packed with features
from tidal indicator to digital tachymeter.

SHOW-BOATING
Beyond competitive yachting, there is another world enjoyed by
fairweather sailors, where a watch is more a lifestyle choice than
an essential tool—and many brands have created pieces to suit.
One of the most literal interpretations of a yacht in watch form
was unveiled by Ulysse Nardin at the 2019 Miami Yacht Show.
Like its namesake, the Marine Mega Yacht watch is both expensive
and rare—only 30 will be made. The cage of its flying tourbillon
takes the shape of a ship’s propeller, while the textured enamel
dial gives an impression of ocean waves. Hublot’s partnership
with founder of Italia Independent and Garage Italia Lapo
Elkann, meanwhile, is a match made in heaven. With last year’s
Big Bang Unico Teak Italia Independent, Elkann looked to his
grandfather Gianni Agnelli’s yachts—Azzurra, Agneta, Extra
Beat—to inspire a limited edition chronograph.
And, of course, the niche aesthetic heritage of yachting is a
fecund source of inspiration for the applied arts, so if all that is
called for is a breath of sea air, there’s a flotilla of métiers d’art
watches from makers such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron
Constantin and Jaeger-LeCoultre that tip their hat to ocean life.
A host of other brands have found inspiration in the craftsmanship
of vessels, from Art Deco ocean liners to mid-century Riva
Aquaramas and Chris-Craft speedboats.

ALPINA
Sailing Yacht Timer
AL-880LBG4V6

OMEGA
Seamaster Planet
Ocean 600M
“Deep Black” GMT ULYSSE NARDIN
Marine Mega Yacht

ROLEX
Yacht-Master II


50 VANITY FAIR ON TIME AUTUMN^2019
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