2019-09-24 Femina

(Ben Green) #1
fashion concepts that essentially dictate
what people wear today,” he said in a recent
conversation with us. Whether it’s in terms of
hiring models and artisans, or looking at distribution
channels—designers are leaving no stone unturned in
going all out to challenge conventional norms. Some
of them are not only challenging the status quo but also
giving rise to new movements that celebrate every
individual and their life choices.

INCLUSIVITY ON THE RADAR
The models covered in glossies are considered the
epitome of beauty, and knowingly or unknowingly,
consumers try to mimic them. However, abiding
by one beauty standard is unrealistic because people
come in different shapes, sizes, and genetics.
“I feel the commercial needs of the ruthless
industry that we work in have used fear, insecurities,

FASHION conversation


I


n 2001, when the fashion world
was still in awe of waif-like models
sashaying down ramps, avant-garde
designer Alexander McQueen chose
to deviate from the path. During the
finale of his independent Spring/Summer
show, Voss, he displayed a glass box at the
centre of a room, which broke open to reveal a full-
figured nude model sitting on a chair with her
face covered with a mask, breathing through
tubes attached to her mouth.
McQueen had always sought
to shatter the notions of what
the society termed ‘normal’,
since it can be harsh on people
who do not check the right
boxes. “I think there is beauty
in everything. What normal people
perceive as ugly, I can usually see
something of beauty in it (sic).”
These words by the late designer
are relevant now more than ever as business
for major conglomerates is being driven
by incorporating inclusivity and equal
opportunity clauses.
Closer home, designer Dhruv Kapur of label
DRVV rebelled against the rules of dressing for
women via his collection—Undress Code—at the
Lakmé Fashion Week (LFW) Summer/Resort 2015.
While incorporating styles like deconstruction
of garments to create new fashion statements, Kapur
focused on the freedom of expression through clothes.
“A combination of genderless, body positivity,
streetwear, and nineties’ nostalgia are some
of the factors that contributed to the rise
of unconventional fashion. Fortunately, I’ve been part
of the change and led the move towards many of the

“A COMBINATION OF BODY
POSITIVITY, STREETWEAR,
ARE SOME OF THE FACTORS
THAT LED TO THE SHIFT.”

Shruti Shende talks
to designers who have not
only dared to, but also
succeeded in challenging and
changing conventional fashion
and beauty norms

(Clockwise) Designer
Dhruv Kapur and a model
wearing his designs

BREAKING


BAD


fashio
what p
conversatio
hiring models a
channels—design
going all out to ch
of them are not on
giving rise to new
individual and t

INCLUSI
The models c
epitome of b
consumers t
by one beaut
come in diffe
“I feel the
industry that

/Summer
box at the
pen to reveal a full-
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ing through

ple
e

as business
gdriven
equal

Kapur of label
of dressing for
ess Code—at the
mmer/Resort 2015.
econstruction
n statements, Kapur
ssion through clothes.
, body positivity,
a are some
the rise
unately, I’ve been part
owards many of the

“A COM
POSITIV
ARE SO
THAT LE

onconcepts that essentially dictate
eople wear today,” he said in a recent
onwith us. Whether it’s in terms of
andartisans, or looking at distribution
nersare leaving no stone unturned in
hallenge conventional norms. Some
nlychallenging the status quo but also
w movements that celebrate every
theirlife choices.

IVITY ON THE RADAR
covered in glossies are considered the
beauty, and knowingly or unknowingly,
tryto mimic them. However, abiding
ty standard is unrealistic because people
erent shapes, sizes, and genetics.
e commercial needs of the ruthless
t wework in have used fear, insecurities,

FASHIONconversation


I


n 2001,whenthefashionworld
wasstillinaweofwaif-likemodels
sashayingdownramps,avant-garde
designerAlexanderMcQueenchose
todeviatefromthepath.Duringthe
finaleofhisindependentSpring/S
show,Voss,hedisplayeda glassb
centreofa room,whichbrokeop
figurednudemodelsittingona c
facecoveredwitha mask,breath
tubesattachedtohermouth.
McQueenhadalwayssought
toshatterthenotionsofwhat
the society termed ‘normal’,
since it can be harsh on people
who do not check the right
boxes. “I think there is beauty
in everything. What normalpeop
perceive as ugly, I can usuallysee
something of beauty in it (sic).”
These words by the late designer
are relevant now more thanever
for major conglomerates is being
by incorporating inclusivity ande
opportunity clauses.
Closer home, designer Dhruv
DRVV rebelled against the ruleso
women via his collection—Undr
Lakmé Fashion Week (LFW)Sum
While incorporating styles likede
of garments to create new fashion
focused on the freedom of expres
“A combination of genderless,
streetwear, and nineties’ nostalgi
of the factors that contributedto
of unconventional fashion. Fortu
of the change and led the movet

MBINATION OF BODY
VITY, STREETWEAR,
MEOF THE FACTORS
EDTO THE SHIFT.”

ShrutiShendetalks
todesignerswhohavenot
onlydaredto,butalso
succeededinchallengingand
changingconventionalfashion
andbeautynorms

(Clockwise) Designer
Dhruv Kapur and a model
wearing his designs

BREAKING


BAD


fashio
whatp
conversatio
hiringmodelsa
channels—design
goingallouttoch
ofthemarenoton
givingrisetonew
individualandt

INCLUSI
The modelsc
epitomeofb
consumerst
by onebeaut
comeindiffe
“I feelthe
industrythat

Summer
boxatthe
pentorevealafull-
chairwithher
ing through

ple
e

asbusiness
gdriven
equal

Kapuroflabel
of dressingfor
essCode—atthe
mmer/Resort2015.
econstruction
nstatements,Kapur
ssionthroughclothes.
,bodypositivity,
aaresome
therise
unately,I’vebeenpart
owards manyof the

“A COM
POSITIV
ARESO
THATLE
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