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Ocean, before navigating our way through small
towns lined with open-plan family houses. Here, many
generations live in annexed housing, meaning three
or four generations often share a home.
It is on this tour that I meet Mala, a chef from the
village of Surinam. Now in her mid-50s, Mala has
taken on a catering role in her local area, cooking
extravagant homemade buffet-style meals for
weddings, parties and – as it turns out – hungry
tourists who are cycling by.
She puts on a feast; black lentils, spicy pumpkin
curry, jackfruit with white bean sauce and chopped
chilli – all to be soaked up with homemade roti. The
food is mouth-wateringly delicious, and I can’t help
going back for seconds (and thirds). She gives me
sweet milk tea, another Mauritian staple, to wash
it all down.
It’s hard to imagine a time when this volcanic
island, now buzzing with such a diverse ethnic
identity, had no native culture at all. In fact, in the
Middle Ages, when Arab travellers first discovered
Mauritius, they recorded no signs of life. It was only
in 1507, when Portuguese traders used the island as
a base, that human life began to take hold. Following
Portugal’s departure, Mauritius became a temporary
settlement for Dutch traders, before the French
transformed the island into a colony in 1710. At the
same time, slave workers were brought in from West
African nations, while artisans and merchants from
India and China also arrived.
Following an attempted British takeover in 1810,
an agreement was eventually made between France
and Britain that Mauritius would advance under
British administration, however settlers were free to
keep their land, language and laws of the French.
A few years later, in 1835, slavery was abolished- and more merchant workers were brought in from
India and China as cheap labour. A melting pot of
cultures began to form on the island.
Soon, Hinduism became as prevalent as
Catholicism, while Islam and Chinese Taoism also
gained momentum. Mosques were built around the
corner from churches; Chinese and Hindu temples sat
side by side in small communities.
Mauritius gained independence in 1968 and, as a
result, this now diverse land had to put the days of
prejudice and slavery behind them in order to coexist
successfully. Last year, the country celebrated 50
years of freedom.
My visit coincides with 51 years of independence
and it’s wonderful to see communities coming
together to celebrate. Families gather under trees
in parks next to cool boxes overflowing with food
and drinks. Flags line the roads, marking the
location of street parties, and the beaches are
full of happy faces. Friendships are formed as
children splash about in the sea. Many people
smile and wave as I pass and, even as a visitor
to Mauritius, I feel included. What a beautiful
feeling that is.
Just before sunset, I clamber onto a small speed
boat that takes me out to sea to watch the day draw
to a close. The water is warm as I dip my toes in over
the edge of the boat, and the sky melts into several
shades of citrus before the sun finally disappears
behind the horizon. Everything feels still, and at
peace. That is the key, I think, to Mauritius. This
nation was born because of freedom of movement;
the notion of harmony is enshrined in everything
here, from culture to nature.Clockwise from left: Discover more of Mauritius by exploring the
island by bike with a knowledgeable guide; Spicy pumpkin curry,
made in the village of Surinam, was Karen's particular favourite.Getting there
Return flights from London with Air Mauritius
(airmauritius.com) start from £732pp.escaping