The Boston Globe - 11.09.2019

(WallPaper) #1
life for people in the restau-
rant business: late nights, var-
ied schedules, all of that.
That’s the hardest part.

Whatotherrestaurantsdo

WednesdayFood


THE BOSTON GLOBE WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2019 | BOSTONGLOBE.COM/FOOD

G


NEW SEASON,

NEW DESTINATIONS

Fall brings exciting restaurant openings in Boston and beyond


This fall brings dozens of new restaurants to the Boston area,
with still more to come in the winter months. If operators are wor-
ried about market saturation and staffing challenges, that isn’t re-
flected in the pace of development. We can look forward to scrappy
little bistros and grand food halls, projects from first-timers and ex-
perienced restaurateurs, wild innovation and old-school tech-
nique, and an unusual amount of chicken. (See:BucktownChicken
&Fishin Mission Hill,HENChickenRicein Union Square,ShyBird
in Kendall Square,PolloClubin Waltham, andTKKFriedChicken
in Quincy.)
Chef Tiffani Faison, who just opened Italian restaurantOrfano,
adds to her portfolio with the seafood-focusedDiveBarand old-
school pizza parlorTenderoni’s. Both will be part of downtown
food hallHighStreetPlace, also home toDaiquiris&Daisies,a
cocktail bar from Daren Swisher and Joseph Cammarata of back-
bar and Hojoko; theFarmacyCafe, featuring healthy organic fare;
a sushi sequel (FujiatHighStreetPlace) and a porchetta purveyor
(Pennypacker’s); and more — includingHaleyJane, which will
serve fried chicken, of course. The Hub on Causeway development
is also coming, with a food hall of its own.HubHallwill have 18
vendors, includingAPIZZA, a New Haven-style pizza concept from
MIDA chef Douglass Williams, andLilyP’s, a (wait for it) fried
chicken joint from chef Chris Parsons (Oyster Club). More vendors
will be announced soon, with some longtime Boston stalwarts in
the mix.Also at the Hub on Causeway, which is adjacent to TD Gar-
den and North Station:BannersKitchen&Tap, a sports bar open-
WHAT'SNEW,PageG6

GETTING SALTY| ANDY KILGORE

By Kara Baskin
GLOBE CORRESPONDENT
Andy Kilgore, 52, has bar-
tended at just about every big
restaurant in town, from No.
9 Park (“It was all Cosmos and
apple martinis, and here we
were making Aviations!”) to
Lucca to Stoddard’s to the
late, lamented Chez Henri
and Foundry on Elm. Now the
Aspen transplant and former
ski instructor runs his own
place, The Emory, on Beacon
Hill.

What’sthefirstrestaurant
thatyouevervisitedinBos-
ton?I remember exactly what
it was: The Border Café in
Harvard Square. I’m sure I ate
something really greasy.

What’sonethingyou’dlike
tofixabouttherestaurant
industryhere?The quality of

youvisit?I’m getting older
and don’t go out as much as I
used to! I live in Somerville.
On this side of the river, I go
to Highland Kitchen and the
Independent in Union
Square. For pizza, I often go to
Regina.

What’syourearliestfood
memorythatmadeyouthink:
Iwanttoworkinrestau-
rants?I remember being 10
or 12 years old, out for dinner
with my parents and grand-
parents, and ordering duck,
Everyone was like, “Why are
you ordering duck at 12?”
Maybe that was an indication.
I was always adventuresome
when I saw something differ-
ent on the menu.

What’stheworstrestaurant
experienceyou’veeverhad?
GETTINGSALTY,PageG7

The view from behind the bar


Why smaller is better and adventurous is OK


Andy Kilgore at The
By Sheryl Julian Emory, on Beacon Hill.
GLOBE CORRESPONDENT
The two things I most
dread about the fall are the
shorter hours of daylight and
the end of tomato season. I
wait all year for native toma-
toes to ripen, not in my own

garden, but in some farmer’s
acreage nearby. I decided
years ago not to grow my own
because that would take the
fun out of my summerlong
quest to find the best ones
around. My car does a
screeching turn at any farm-

ers’ market sign and I buy so
many of the beautiful red
fruits that you’d think I was
feeding a family of 10.
I’m making ratatouille and
another French classic that’s
not as well known: Provencal
WHATSHE'SHAVING,PageG7

Freeze those ripe tomatoes


They’ll brighten a dreary winter’s day


WHAT SHE’S HAVING

SHERYL JULIAN FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE

Whole
tomatoes,
frozen in one
layer in a
rimmed pan,
go into a
freezer bag for
winter
storage.

BY DEVRA FIRST | GLOBE STAFF


CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ANDREW WANG; ARAM BOGHOSIAN FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE; COURTESY PHOTOS

BARMOXY
Dineallday
inaTheatre
Districthotel

ORFANO
TiffaniFaison’s
Italianspot
intheFenway

NIGHTSHADE
Anoodlebar
takesroot
inLynn

FRANK
Thenextchapter
forL’Espalier’s
formerchef
Free download pdf