2019-10-01 Wanderlust

(Ron) #1
Theradiocracklesasyouslicethroughthewaves
toward the outer reef at Ningaloo: the spotter
plane has made a sighting. You check your mask,
and gaze down to see a speckled torpedo glide
past, accompanied by a retinue of smaller cobia
and remora: whale shark, the world’s biggest …ish,
growing to over 12m long. Seconds later you’re in
the water, trying not to gasp through your snorkel
asthebus-sizedbehemothextendsitsmouthin
abroadgape,hooveringupplanktonasitstail
sweepslanguidly.Mesmerised,yougazeatthe
constellationofspotsonits…lanks,uniqueas
ahuman…ingerprint.
Thewhalesharkisoneoftheblueplanet’smost
magni…icentmarinecreatures–andthemost
mysterious:althoughscientistsstudytheirepic
migrationscoveringthousandsofmilesacross

theoceans,it’sstillunknownwheretheyproduce
their young – aphenomenonthat’sneverbeen
seen. For nearlyhalftheyear,largenumbers
arrive in WesternAustraliatofeedalongtheouter
edge of Ningaloo,oneoftheworld’slongest
fringing reefs. Smallnumbersofoperatorsare
licensed to leadwhale-sharkswims,during
which you’ll alsosnorkelabovekaleidoscopic
coralgardensandpossiblyspotmantarays,
humpbacks,dugongs,spinnerdolphinsand
green,loggerheadandhawksbillturtles.
Toptips:Humpbackwhalesmigratepast
NingaloofromaroundJunetoOctober.Manta
raysarepresentyear-round,butnumbersnear
ExmouthrisebetweenMayandNovember.
Alsotry:DonsolBay,Philippines;Ma…iaIsland,
Tanzania;Maldives;NosyBe,Madagascar.

118


WHEN?
Whalesharkstypically
cruisethewatersof
Ningaloofrommid-March
toAugust,sometimes

Alamy aweekeitherside.


The classic: Dive with the world’s largest shark o Ko Tao island,Thailand


The alternative: Snorkel with spangled giantsinWesternAustralia


ALTERNATIVE SECRET WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES


wanderlust.co.uk October 2019 107
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