Theboatenginechugswheezilyasyouglide
alongtheriver.Adensewalloftreesateitherside
createstheimpressionofbeinginsidea
ishtank,
humidandhalf-dark.Onthebanks,birdsand
proboscismonkeys
litthroughthecanopy.Then
youcatchaglimpseofshaggy,rust-orangefurin
thelushfoliage,andyourheartleapsatthesight
ofoneofthebeautiful‘peopleoftheforest’.
Likethetwootherspeciesofthisgreatape,
theBorneanorangutaniscriticallyendangered
(theTapanuliinSumatramaynumberjust800),
hitparticularlybyhabitatlossfromwide-scale
loggingandclearanceforoil-palmplantations.
Visitorscanseeorphanedandrecovering
individualsatanumberofrehabilitation
sanctuariesinSabah,SarawakandKalimantan–
buttoexperiencethethrillofspyingoneinthe
wild,venturealongthelowerreachesofSabah’s
longestriver,theKinabatangan.Duringalate-
afternoonboatcruise,youmayspotmonitor
lizards,macaques,elephants,thebigyellow
snoutsoftherhinoceroshornbill–and,with
adashoffortune,orangutanshighinthecanopy.
Toptip:FeedingtimesattheSepilokcentre,
whenresidentsaregivenbananasandmilk,are
typicallymid-morningandmid-afternoon.
Alsotry:SemenggohNatureReserve,Sarawak;
GunungLeuserNationalPark,Sumatra;Tanjung
PutingNationalPark,Kalimantan.
123
Theclassic:Visitarehabilitationsanctuary
fororangutansinMalaysianBorneo
WHEN?
It’s damp year-round
in Malaysian Borneo so
always travel prepared
for rain; the wettest
months are between
November and April.
ALTERNATIVE SECRET WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES
wanderlust.co.uk October 2019 117
The alternative: Trail ‘people of
the forest’ in Malaysian Borneo
Naturepl