180 wanderlust.co.uk October 2019POCKET GUIDES FIRST 24 HOURS
Getafeelforthecitywitha
self-guided walking tour around
downtown Tashkent. Start at Amir
Timur Square, with its vast statue
of Timur – founder of the Timurid
Empire and Uzbekistan’s national
hero – as well as the mighty Soviet
facade of Hotel Uzbekistan.Stroll along the Broadway (Sailgokh
Street), browsing its art and craft
stalls, and stopping to admire the
Palace of Grand Duke Nikolai
Konstantinovich Romanov.
Descend into Mustakillik Maydoni
Station to discover a subterranean
beauty: Tashkent Metro (pictured).It opened in 1977, and each station
is decorated with murals, mosaics
and chandeliers. Ride the metro to
Chorsu, looking out for the striking
platforms of Paxtakor, Alisher Navoiy
and Gafur Gulom along the way.
Chorsu Bazaar is one of the
largest markets in Central Asia, and
dates back to the 16th century.
Follow your nose to the bakers
cooking fresh non (lat bread) in
vast ovens, and feast on grilled
shashlik (kebabs) and samsa
(meat- or vegetable-illed pastries).
Finally, call at Kukeldash
Madrasah, near the bazaar. Few of
Tashkent’s historic buildings
survived the 1966 earthquake
because of their mudbrick
construction, but this attractive
complex has lasted 450 years in
various guises – as a religious
school, fortress, caravanserai, and
folk music museum in Soviet times.
Dine tonight at Caravan
(caravangroup.uz): it’s stu ed with
antiques, and the menu features
plenty of Uzbek favourites.
Finish the day with a nightcap at
Sette (hyatt.com), looking down
from the rooftop terrace across the
city. The Bagizagan wines from
Samarkand are very drinkable.Topend:CurrentlytheHyatt
Regency (hyatt.com) is the only
true ive-star hotel in Uzbekistan.
The immaculate rooms feature
loor-to-ceiling windows and
modern décor – and many have
their own terraces and views
across Park Odo. Twin/King rooms
from UZS2,158,000pn (£205).
Mid-range: Lotte City Hotel
Tashkent Palace (lottehotel.com,
pictured) sits opposite the
beautiful Navoi Opera Theatre.Built in 1958, the hotel’s facade is
one of Tashkent’s most elegant
landmarks. The outdoor pool is
a treat in summer; in winter, you
might prefer the sauna. Double
rooms from UZS1,334,000pn (£137).
Budget: Centrally-located Gulnara
Guesthouse (facebook.com/
gulnaraguesthouse) is a family-run
hostel set around an attractive
courtyard, where a complimentary
breakfast is served. Dorm beds
from USZ158,000pn (£15).TakeadvantageofUzbekistan’s
excellent high-speed train network
and head west to see the UNESCO
World Heritage treasures of
Samarkand. The air-conditioned
journey takes two hours, and will
transport you to the capital of the
Timurid Empire – where the
glittering tilework of the Registan,
Shah-i-Zinda, and Gur-i Amir
dazzles all who see it. Samarkand is
also famed for its handicrafts, so
ensure there’s plenty of space in
your bags to stock up on paintedceramics, hand-woven silks, and
perhaps even a carpet.
Ugam-Chatkal National Park
(pictured) is a 2.5-hour drive to the
northeast of Tashkent. In winter, you
can ski at Chimgan and Amirsoy; in
summer, plan a day hike around
Lake Charvak, a reservoir
surrounded by sandy beaches and
dachas (holiday homes). The peaks
of the Western Tian Shan provide
a dramatic backdrop to the
turquoise water, which makes for
a cooling dip on hot days.Stay or go?
Where to stay?
First day’s tour
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■Rainfall (average) Temperature (average high)̊C MMPopulation: 2.14 million
Languages: Uzbek,
Russian; some English is
spoken in larger hotels.
Time zone: GMT+5
International dialling
code: +998
Visas: Visa-free for UK
passport holders and
other EU nationals.
Currency: Uzbekistani
So’m (UZS), currently
around 10,700 to the UK£.
ATMs: ATMs accepting
Mastercard and Visa are
not widely available in
Tashkent, though you can
ind them at the airport and
in the lobbies of larger
hotels. However, these
ATMs are not always
working – and they
frequently run out of cash.
Where available, ATMs
typically dispense both
UZS and US$: the latter can
then be swapped at
a foreign exchange
counter for So’m. If you
prefer not to use ATMs, you
can get a cash advance on
your card at the major
banks located in the city.
Credit cards: Visa and
Mastercard are accepted
in larger hotels, some
restaurants, and high-end
shops. Elsewhere, UZS
cash is required.
Recommended
guidebook:
The third and fully-
updated edition of Bradt
Travel Guides’ Uzbekistan
(by this author) will be
published in Dec 2019.
Climate: Tashkent is hot
and dry from May to
October, but cooler with
occasional rain in winter.
In January, temperatures
can drop below freezing.Need to know