CAMBODIA
78 wanderlust.co.uk October 2019
DIDYOU
KNOW?
Themightyriver
Mekongstretches
4,350km–its
basinisthesecond
mostdiversearea
onearth,after
theAmazon.
67
Angkor
Don’t join the
thousands to see dawn rising
over the West Gate. Instead visit
the emptier East Gate and enjoy
a peaceful, magical half hour.
68
Kampot
Caves in the hills near
this relaxed former French river
port are illed with golden
Buddhas and thousand-year-
old Khmer temples. The most
arresting is at Phnom Chhngok.
69
Cardamom
Mountains
Tigers, clouded leopard and
wild elephants live in the remote
rainforest south of Battambang.
Trips into the deep forest are
organised via hostels in Koh Kong.
70
Battambang
Bamboo Train
Swap the specially-built tourist
bamboo train for the real thing,
and whizz alongside rice
paddies on a makeshift platform
set on old tank wheels. Leaving
from near Wat Sara Woan, and
running along the Battambang
to Phnom Penh mainline, it’s
a truly exhilarating experience.
71
Koh Rong
The pristine reefs of Koh
Rong marine park can be easily
reached by boat. Jump aboard
at Sok San beach.
72
Kratie
Visit this sleepy
little Mekong village for a rare
sighting of the Irrawaddy River
Dolphin. Go late afternoon.
SIX MORE CAMBODIAN SECRETS
Alex Robinson; Map illustration by Scott Jessop
Planning guides
Cambodia Travel Guide
Archive article
‘Cambodia’s cardomoms’ –
issue 189
Visit http://www.wanderlust.co.uk/200
More online
Curry favour
Cambodia’s
spicy, tangy
national dish
Amok, with
boiled rice
Lying at the end of a long white
sand beach in Koh Rong Samloen,
shaded by fragrant frangipani trees,
Saracen Bay Resort (saracenbay-
resort-cambodia.com) has villas
opening onto the waterfront or set
in tropical gardens. Forest trails lead
to the other side of the island. The
hotel can organise boat or kayak
trips. B&B doubles from $95 (£79).
Food & drink
Amok is recognised as Cambodia’s
national dish and is a thick chicken
or seafood curry, steam-cooked
with coconut cream and galangal in
a banana leaf and accompanied by
jasmine rice.
In Kampot, ine restaurants along
the riverfront serve food cooked
in the local green, black or white
pepper (including Atelier).
Try the street food – barbecued
frog, squid kebabs, breaded ish
cakes and stued baguettes in
Num Pang (in Phnom Penh);
stewed barbecue mud crab and
barbecue squid on the coast.
Further reading
Cambodia (Rough Guides, 2017)
Angkor and the Khmer Civilization
by Michael D Coe and Damian
Evans (Thames & Hudson, 2018)
First They Killed My Father by
Loung Ung (HarperCollins, 2000) –
also a ilm directed by Angelina Jolie
tourismcambodia.com – for oicial
tourist information on Cambodia