Spotlight - 11.2019

TRAVEL 11/2019 Spotlight 33

Map: N.Vector Design/Shutterstock.com

admire [Ed(maIE]

, bewundern

approach [E(prEUtS]

, sich annähern

bank [bÄNk]

, hier: Ufer

curious [(kjUEriEs]

, neugierig

damp [dÄmp]

, feuchtkalt, klamm

disembark [)dIsIm(bA:k]

, von Bord gehen

drizzle [(drIz&l]

, Nieselregen

drysuit [(draIsu:t]

, Trockenanzug

glimpse [glImps]

, flüchtiger Blick

gorgeous [(gO:dZEs]

, wunderschön

head torch [(hed tO:tS]

, Stirnlampe

inn [In]

, Gasthof

lookout [(lUkaUt]

, Ausschau

matter: for that ~

[(mÄtE]

, eigentlich, genau

genommen

overcast [(EUvEkA:st]

, bedeckt, bewölkt

roaring [(rO:rIN]

, tosend

seal [si:&l]

, Robbe

shore [SO:]

, Ufer, Strand

sleek [sli:k]

, seidig glänzend

smooth [smu:D]

, glatt

start out [stA:t (aUt]

, aufbrechen

tidal island

[)taId&l (aIlEnd]

, Gezeiteninsel

tight [taIt]

, hier: knapp

which is close to the lake’s north end. I

have no idea how to get into Loch Ness.

I’ve driven past it, and remember that its

banks are quite steep. The ladies at the

tourist office couldn’t be more helpful,

and after discussing it, they suggest that

we get into the loch at Dores Beach. After

a picnic lunch, we head north towards

majestic Aldourie Castle. The tourist of-

fice says we can rent the whole castle — if

we’re not on a tight budget

It’s a beautiful day and we feel hot in

our drysuits, which protect us if we fall

into the cold water. Loch Ness is some

36 kilometres long and only about three

kilometres wide at its broadest point.

There are just a couple of cruise boats on

the water, their passengers no doubt on

the lookout for Nessie. Not surprising-

ly, there’s no sign of the monster. After

admiring the castle, we head back to the

beach and pack up. We’re off to the west

coast tonight — it’ll be about a two-hour

drive to Plockton.

The mild, mild west

Plockton is a small fishing village on the

shores of Loch Carron. It’s not my first

visit — in fact, this sea loch is the only

place in Scotland where I’ve paddle-

boarded before. Here, on the west coast,

the weather is milder and Plockton is fa-

mous for its palm trees. We can’t wait to

get out on the water — it’s actually warm

enough to paddle barefoot. We paddle out

of the bay, along the shoreline and then

across the loch towards Duncraig Castle.

When we arrive back in the harbour after

a couple of hours, we meet two other pad-

dleboarders — the only ones we’ve seen

so far. Will Evans and his partner, Kate

Magee, have just relocated from North

Wales to set up a SUP rental company

here. We exchange numbers and hope to

go paddling together in a few days.

To Harris and beyond

We’re up early to drive to Uig, a village on

the beautiful Isle of Skye, to catch the fer-

ry to Tarbert, on the Isle of Harris, as the

southern part of the Outer Hebridean is-

land of Lewis and Harris is known.

About 90 minutes later, the ferry ap-

proaches Harris. The rocky landscape here

is very different to that of the mainland.

There are no palm trees in sight — or any

other trees, for that matter. After disem-

barking, we drive for about 20 minutes

and catch our first glimpse of Luskentyre

Bay. We spend the afternoon relaxing

among the warm sand dunes, looking at

the changing colours of the roaring sea.

After dinner in Tarbert, we go for a

paddle, starting out from the tiny beach

in front of our hostel in Drinishader. The

water is calm here. Wearing head torches

so that we can be seen, we stay out until

after dark — which is after eleven. The

next morning, we go out again before

breakfast. The smooth surface of the

water is broken only occasionally by the

sleek head of a curious seal. This is the life!

It’s soon time to leave, though, and af-

ter a ferry ride back to Skye, we’re treated

to a gorgeous pink sunset as we drive

along Skye Bridge over Loch Alsh to our

next stop: Ratagan Youth Hostel on the

banks of Loch Duich.

Castles and seals

It’s late when we arrive at the small hostel.

Arran, the friendly hostel manager, asks

what we’re doing in Scotland. When I tell

him we’re on a stand-up paddle tour, he

mishears and asks, “Are you comedians?”

“You could say that,” I laugh.

The next morning is damp and over-

cast. After a leisurely breakfast, we pad-

dleboard towards Eilean Donan Castle,

about seven kilometres away. We’re not

sure if we’ll make it to the castle because

we don’t know if the weather will hold.

“You’ll be fine!” shouts Arran, as he

waves us off.

Despite the constant drizzle, the going

is good. We can’t help stopping every now

and then to look back at the seals popping

their heads up to watch us with their big

black eyes. It takes us about an hour and

a half to get to the castle, which sits on a

small tidal island near where Loch Duich,

Loch Alsh and Loch Long meet. It’s easy

to see why the castle is one of the most

popular attractions in the Highlands.

We paddle back to Ratagan, enjoying

the view of the loch, with the hills called

the Five Sisters of Kintail in the back-

ground. Arran is waiting for us on the

shore as we arrive, and he recommends

Glenelg Inn for dinner. When we get

there, we spot Will and Kate’s van in the

car park. We go in and say hello, and ar-

range to paddle together early the next

morning, when the tide is at its highest.

The next day, we meet Will in the car

park at Dornie, pump up the boards and

1 Edinburgh 2 Whinnyfold, North Sea 3 Inverness,

Loch Ness^4 Plockton, Loch Carron^5 Uig, Isle of Skye

6 Tarbert, Lewis and Harris 7 Loch Duich

(^8) Balmaha, Loch Lomond (^9) Glasgow
1
(^53)
7 2
6
4
8
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