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McCall Smith’s book, My Italian Bulldozer,today’s journey took me into the hills of Tuscany,
high above Sienna to the little town of Montalcino.
Flanked by fields of golden sunflowers and rows of
twisted vines, the searing summer heat receded as
the road led me towards the fortified walls of the
Fortezza di Montalcino.
Within minutes of arriving at the main square,
I found myself tuning into the thrum of a sewing
machine being used to add the finishing touches to
a wide range of handmade items in the small but well-
appointed shop, Sartoria Principe Montalcino. Owner,
Renata, and her sister, Gabriella, create beautiful
home accessories and garments from luxurious natural
materials. Just a few yards from Renata’s shop, I met
Massimo, the owner of a family business over 100
years old, Montalcino 564. His characterful shop was
brimming with table linen, embroidered cushions,leather trimmed bags and endless bolts of cotton, hemp
and linen in 50 shades of neutral. As I surveyed my
purchases over a cappuccino, I noticed yet another
shop with a woman seated in front of a loom. I had
barely walked a few hundred yards and yet evidence of
Italy’s rich textile history was all around me.
The next day, I avoided the intense afternoon sun
with a blissful visit to the Museo del Tessuto (Museum
of Textiles) just outside Pisa. Housed in a large
19th-century mill within the medieval walls of Prato,
the museum’s collections include ancient and antique
fabric, embroideries, world textiles, costumes, over
1,700 fashion plates from French and Italian magazines
of the 19th century, and, much to my delight, some
quilted objects.
Its exhibition space was filled with ‘Textiles of the
Renaissance Courts of Europe’ and, as I drifted oto sleep that night, my last thoughts were of tumbling
roses, peonies and tulips in lustrous gold and silver.Jane Rae shares discoveries, hidden gems
and serendipitous moments from her
travels in stitch.7KH GLDU\ RI D WUDYHçLQJ
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Above left, 17th century Trapunto Blanket, part of the
collection at the Museo del Tessuto in Prato; Right, the
museum at Prato is located in a nineteenth-century
factory built within the city’s medieval walls; Below left,
spoilt for choice at Montalcino 564 (L) and Sartoria
Principe Montalcino (R); Below right, rooftop view from
the town of Montalcino
ISSUE^56TUSCANY
ITALY