an array of hues within one tone, like beige
and grey – we’ve bought into grey in a big
way for the season ahead,’ von der Goltz says.
Much of the company’s buy will focus on
layering, including coats and shirt dresses from
Ton’s debut collection as creative director
of the fledgling New York label Deveaux.
Co-founders Matthew Breen and Andrea
Tsao had discovered Ton’s library of over
a million images and seen it as an education
in the nuances of personal style. ‘Street
style was great research; as a photographer,
you’re looking more aesthetically, but
as a designer you have to be more grounded
in reality and understand why something
works,’ Ton says. For Deveaux that means
a certain calmness and functional elegance:
‘beautiful everyday pieces with a loose fit’.
Deveaux shares the same insouciant style
favoured by the highbrow American luxury
label The Row, which is rebellious in its
simplicity. ‘I think we’re all in a place wherewe want to cleanse the palate and not fuss
about getting dressed. We want to feel
invested in clothes that are sustainable and
not over-buy,’ Ton says. ‘Our mission is to
make clothes that whisper and that make
sense. It’s more inspiring to see a woman
wearing one of our dresses pushing her baby
around as opposed to seeing it at a gala.’
Deveaux’s approach reflects a renewed
cynicism towards throwaway styles. Likewise,
Serbian-born Dušan Paunovic has weathered
the seasonal whims of fashion for two decades,
making discreet, beautiful clothes in his
adopted hometown of Milan. ‘If I were to
start my label today, I think it would be more
difficult. There’s so much information, so
many collections, and the power of big brands
is even stronger than it used to be,’ he says.
Yet, his is a manner of dressing that is never
in or out. It is about a certain pragmatism,
a respect for quality, something that will not
‘get in the way’. ‘My clothes are quiet,’ he adds.The three co-founders of new London-based
label Legres share his approach. They work
with Italian artisans to create timeless boots
in unfussy colours, and wish to remain
unnamed. ‘In this age of oversharing, hyper-
connectivity and aggressive marketing, we
wanted to express a different vision,’ they say.
‘We are looking for an audience that shares
our love of craftsmanship, and is not only
looking for a commodity to take a photo of.’
The radical simplicity of Loro Piana’s
cashmere tracksuits and the fine suiting
at Agnona subvert the maximalist street-
style spectacle, which Ton celebrated early
on. These are clothes for fully formed
characters: a dress to flatter a woman who
has zero time to get dressed; a good easy
suit in which to feel understood. ‘To me,
that is more of a challenge than focusing
on whether or not an influencer will wear
it to a show,’ Ton says. There is a new
minimalism beside the madness. ∂Left and below, jacket,
£1,965; jumper, £665; jumper
(worn around shoulder), £665;
trousers, £1,165, all by Agnona
For stockists, see page 232
Model: Maria Vitoria at
Next Management
Casting director:
David Steven Wilton at East
Hair: Chris Sweeney using
Leonor Greyl
Make-up: Emma Broom
using Nars Cosmetics
Interiors: Olly Mason
Photography assistant:
Jan Stasiuk
Fashion assistants: Morgane
Nyfeler, Aylin Bayhan116 ∑
Fashion