2019-10-01 Cosmopolitan UK

100 ·^ COSMOPOL

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first,youshouldnever walk into a skin

clinicwithoutdoing your research,

on them and the state of your skin.

Of course the professionals we consult

need to be clued up on all skin types

and tones – but it is safe to say that, at

this point in time, this isn’t always the

case. It’s one reason why Black Skin

Directory was created – it features

a growing “clinic search” list of

reputable therapists and clinics where

skins of any colour are in safe hands.

The beauty industry has come so

far in the past 10 years, with calls for

inclusivity being met, on the whole,

with action. But skincare is the final

barrier we need to break when it

comes to equality in the world of

beauty. It’s just as important for

people of colour to know our own

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You asked, we answered – here’s a quick-fire look at some

keyquestionsblackwomenfacewhenitcomestotheirskin

Shedding light

on dark-skin care

What is the bestwayto help

even out dark skin?

“So-called ‘tyrosinase

inhibitors’ are key,”say

Dr Ejikeme. “They are

compounds that help

even skin tone by

blocking hyperactivity

pigment-producingcel

Look for arbutin, kojic

acid, licorice extractso

tranexamic acid onthe

ingredients list.”

TRY: Bea Skin Care

Brightening Serum,£5

What should all black women

have in theirskincareroutine?

“Ceramides. They’renon-greasy fatty

acids that theskin

to strengthenits

protective barrier,”

says Thomas.

TRY: Glossier

Priming

Moisturizer

Rich, £29

What do we need to know

about lasers?

“Avoid scrubs and active

like retinols and glycolic

acid pre-treatment,”

says Dr Ejikeme. “After

the patch test (to chec

if the laser will cause

hyperpigmentation),

wait up to seven days

• longer than the 24 to
  48 hours for light skin.”
  TRY: Kiehl’s
  Midnight Recovery
  Concentrate, £38

How do I treat post-inflammatory

hyperpigmentation?

“This is darkening oftheskindue

to trauma,” says DrEjike

“Stoptheunderlyingcau

[UV,skinpicking, harsh

scrubs scented and

siveproducts],

eatyour skin

products with

aseinhibitors

bove, top].”

SkinCeuticals

oloration Defense

m,£85

What do black womenneedto

know about sun care?

“Black people do burn,

so wear sunscreen, stay

covered up (wear big

hats and sunglasses)

and stay out of the sun

during the hottest period

of the day,” says Ayodele.

TRY: Murad Oil & Pore

Control Mattifier SPF45,£4

What’s the deal withacids

and black skin?

“Some people use acids

every point in their skinca

routine – that’s too much

for anyone,” says Ayodele

Thomas suggests lactic,

mandelic or azelaic to

avoid any inflammation.

TRY: The Inkey List Lact

Acid Serum, £7.99

Can black womenhaveIPL?

“No – Intense Pulsed

Light treatments can

cause permanent

discolouration,” says

Estelle. To even skintone

see a clinician for Nd:YA

laser or a custom peel.

For hair removal, epilate

TRY: Braun Silk-Epil9,

£164.99

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STILL LIFES DENNIS PEDERSEN. HAIR AND MAKE-UP CAMILLA AKEHURST AT LHA REPRESENTS, USING FENTY BEAUTY AND AVEDA. MODEL MAGGIE AT

MOT MODELS.

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D, JON PATERSON/STUDIO D, GETTY IMAGES