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PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES, ALAMY, NINA-MARIA OETKER, STOCKSY, SHUTTERSTOCK
October 2019 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | 309continues to host the rich and
famous (Angelina Jolie, Barack
Obama, Her Majesty the Queen);
and remains wonderfully atmos-
pheric, with polished mahogany
panelling, opulent cherry wood
furnishings and plush velvet uphol-
stery. Its famous elephant fountain- presented to the Adlon in 1930 by
India’s Maharajah of Patiala – stands resplendent in the grand
lobby; and the exceptional two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Lorenz
Adlon Esszimmer, pays tribute to the hotel’s founder, with a
masterful chef, Hendrik Otto, inspired by the finest traditions of
European haute cuisine.
After several days of walking around the city – from the sombre
Berlin Wall Memorial at Bernauer Strasse to the remarkable,
newly restored Neues Museum (chosen by Max Mara as the strik-
ing setting for its Cruise collection in June this year) – it was always
a pleasure to return to the warmth of the Adlon. But my husband
and I had a 500-mile journey to undertake, driving south to
Baden-Baden via Leipzig. As culturally vibrant now as its
historical associations with Goethe, Bach, Wagner and
Mendelssohn would bespeak, this is a city that deserves to
be explored at greater length. Sadly, we had time to stay only
one night, at the Steigenberger Grandhotel Handelshof,
built in 1909 in the heart of Leipzig, beside the 16th-century
town hall and the Goethe Memorial.
T h e n c e w e w e n t o n t o C o l d i t z , t h e f o r b i d d i n g , t h o u s a n d -
year-old fortress where my husband’s uncle had been imprisoned
as a POW during World War II. Here, we explored the labyrinth-
ine castle and marvelled over the daring escape plans that were
devised by the Allied prisoners (one tunnel under the chapel can
still be seen today, along with a glider constructed in a hidden
attic workshop).
In the wake of the bleak severity of Colditz, the spa town of
Baden-Baden looked all the more appealing, nestling amid the
hills of the Black Forest. Here we were fortunate to check into
the superb Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa, surrounded by leafy gardens
and overlooking an arboretum on the
banks of the River Oos. The hotel has
a distinguished legacy – it first opened in
1872, and has hosted generations of royal
guests; King Edward VII came to bathe
in Baden-Baden’s famed thermal springs,
as well as playing the tables at the town’s
renowned casino.
Brenners Park remains one of the
great European grande dame hotels, with
its understated luxury and charming,
consummately professional staff. It also
boasts a world-class spa, Villa Stéphanie,
that is now a destination in itself, offering
everything from hi-tech laser therapy to
10-day weight-loss programmes. How-
ever, far from availing ourselves of these
options, on this trip at least, we chose to
savour the delights of Brenners Park’s
restaurants and bars, in particular the
recently opened Fritz & Felix, a stylish,
buzzy venue that is as popular with
locals as hotel guests. Having feasted on
delicious local trout and grilled chicken,
and been introduced to the regional vodka cocktails, we ambled
back to our bedroom, with its floral chintz curtains and delightful
view over the city’s parkland.
Even without taking Baden-Baden’s eponymous waters, this was
the most restorative of experiences; one that felt more akin to staying
with welcoming friends (albeit in a graciously comfortable stately
home) after an epic journey across Germany.
Hotel Adlon Kempinski (www.kempinski.com/adlon), from about
£265 a room a night. Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa (www.oetkercollection.
com), from about £295 a night, based on two people sharing a Double
Standard Room.Clockwise from right:
the pool at the
Brenners Park-Hotel.
Hotel Adlon. The
Brandenburg GateClockwise from above:
Marlene Dietrich and
Charlie Chaplin at the
Adlon in 1931. Brenners
Park. The Adlon’s
Restaurant Quarré