desire. Eat delicious hot kachoris and
kadhi in the small shops leading up to
the shrine, then sit inside the dargah
to enjoy the soulful qawwali.
Gwalior, Madhya Pradesh
The city of Gwalior is often defined by
its fort, which was built between the
sixth and 10th centuries. The Gwalior
fort has since been used by a number
of dynasties, and the inscriptions on its
walls tell interesting stories. For a dose
of ancient history though, look for the
oldest known representation of shunya,
or zero, on the walls of one of the fort’s
temples. Visit the fort in the evening
for a light-and-sound show and learn
about Gwalior’s history and legends.
The city also nurtures an important
living tradition. It is home to the old-
est khayal gharana in Hindustani
music and is closely associated with
the life and music of Tansen. Every
December, a four-day music festival,
the Tansen Samaroh, is held near his
tomb, attracting exponents of Hindu-
stani music from all over the country.Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu
If Kanchipuram only means silk sa-
ris to you, it is time to pay this city
(70 kms from Chennai) a visit. With
influences from the Chola, Pallava and
Vijayanagara kingdoms, it has a history
spanning almost two millennia and is
one of India’s oldest cities. Listen to
the oral rendition of ancient literature
in the temples, touch the intricate stone
sculptures and feel yourself being gen-
tly pulled back in time. Look for hand-
loom weavers making brightly coloured
cotton saris and pristine white dhotis.readersdigest.co.in 49A panoramic view
of the majestic
Gwalior Fort at dusk