168 SEPTEMBER 2019
VOGUE BE AU T Y
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Models with a natural wave, curl or coil spent less
time in hair and make-up this season, with hairstylists
from New York to Paris embracing all manner of
movement. And where it was missing, they created it.
Pioneering hairdresser and backstage stalwart Sam
McKnight seemed to be caught in a time warp with
references to Pre-Raphaelites of the late 1800s, a creative
collective whose work featured women with tumbling
waist-length curls, on full display at Halpern and
Michael Kors. For the latter, McKnight offered up
a centre-parted trapezoidal cloud of curls that almost
seemed to orbit model’s heads, the perfect complement
to a collection inspired by 50s-era off-duty dancers
of New York’s Upper West Side.
Whether it’s the inevitable (and welcomed) pendulum
swing away from season upon season of effortless,
bed-head inspired ’dos, or simply a response to the wearable elegance and
bourgeois mood brewing on the runways, the message is clear: curls, in every
iteration, are back. Hair at 3.1 Phillip Lim charted a similarly curvy course.
Hairstylist Gary Gill created a brushed-out curl (slick at the roots, frizz fully
embraced) that felt much like the style you might have rocked as a third-grader
after going to sleep with your hair in plaits. Elsewhere, there were subtler nods to
the new mood. At Emporio Armani, curls loosely zigzagged for a more modern
take on a finger wave, while at Paula Knorr, Nick Irwin offered “a nod to the disco
era ... without being too literal”.
In salons, the concept of the perm is being interpreted less literally. “It has gone
from tight curls to creating waves and a gentle movement in the hair,” says Renya
Xydis, owner of Sydney’s Valonz salon and creative director of Wella Professionals
Australia and New Zealand. Xydis has seen a steady stream of clients farewell
their straight roots in favour of a more permanent solution. “Girls wearing a shag
haircut with an edgy perm – a cheeky nod to the mods – is a massive trend right
now,” she says.
The permanent wave is, of course, a chemical intervention that disrupts the
hair’s natural form so it can be reworked into an entirely new shape. Those tightly
wound styles synonymous with the 80s were more trend than technique. But done
right, a perm 2.0, which takes about the same time as a colour appointment, should
appear as if you’ve naturally sprouted that Mica Argañaraz-inspired mop. Just ask
Luke Hersheson, who offers a service he’s coined the “new-wave perm” in his
eponymous UK salons. Hersheson agrees the perm’s rebirth is decidedly looser
than decades past, a result of the size of rod or roller used to compel hair to stay
in place. “We’re doing it on really long hair with old-fashioned foam rollers, so it’s
soft and loose,” he says of the style that’s now a favourite among celebrities like
Emma Stone, who first debuted a perm last year.
As anyone with a naturally curly mane will attest, care and styling are
paramount. And although perming formulas have advanced in the last 30 years,
the chemical nature of the process still isn’t without its setbacks. “Hydrate,
hydrate, hydrate,” declares Xydis, who swears by the System Professional Hydrate
range. “A perm is a chemical solution that strips the hair of its moisture, so you
need to ensure that this is replaced.” A weekly mask
should replenish root-to-tip moisture, while brawnier in-
salon treatments will counteract damage. “I use the Joico
Defy Damage Pro Series 1 and 2 in-salon service to give
the hair strength, and then follow up with the Defy
Damage at-home care system to maintain healthy shiny
hair,” says Joico international guest artistic director
RichardMannah.
Curled hair will appear shorter, too, so a cut and perm
should work in tandem. “Always discuss length and style
first, as this will depict the tightness of curl you go for,”
notes Xydis. Mannah always cuts before the perm. “Trim
the ends before perming so the hair looks healthy from
roots to ends,” he says. When natural strands do begin to
sprout, employ the same styling arsenal you would with
colour regrowth: a dusting of dry shampoo and a good
root lift spray can disguise any awkward transition points.
We may be able to curl, wave, straighten, relax and colour
until our heart’s content, but regrowth? That just might be
the final frontier. ■“Girls
wearing a
shag haircut
with an
edg y perm- a cheeky
nod to the
mods – is a
massive trend
right now ”
FAKE IT ’TIL YOU MAKEIT
Not ready to commit to a perm? These tools and
products will give a similar, temporary effect.Dyson Airwrap,
$79 9.John Frieda Frizz
Ease Dream Curls
Curl Defining
Crème, $17.Ghd Oracle, $340.JoicoCurl
Co+Wash
Whipped
Cleansing
Conditioner, $30.