Saturday Magazine - 24.08.2019

66 SATURDAY MAGAZINE

The Praça do Comércio (Commercial Square)

is a city centrepiece of which Lisbon is rightly

proud. This grand square opening on to the

Tagus River boasts a fine statue of King Joseph

I in the centre and is capped at its northern end

by an imposing arch, the Arco da Rua Augusta.

Like most of Lisbon’s great buildings,

Praça do Comércio was built following

an earthquake, tsunami and fire that

devastated the city in 1755. A

massive rebuilding programme

resulted in

the place we

see today. Lisbon’s history can be better

understood at The Lisbon Story Centre in the

square (the price was included in our Lisbon

Card tourist pass, a money-saving investment

and highly recommended). Here, we took a

self-guided tour with headphones through

interactive exhibits providing a sweeping view

of Lisbon’s 2,000-year history. It really gives you

a new perspective on the capital – its glorious

18th-century buildings are a testament to the

residents’ resilience in the face of destruction.

The Praça do Comércio is the focal point of

Lisbon’s Baixa, or downtown area. Its long,

straight streets are a living memorial to the man

tasked with rebuilding after the earthquake, the

Marquis of Pombal. Amid all the grandeur

is the quirky Santa Justa elevator, a

100-year-old lift that takes passengers

seven stories up from Baixa to the Bairro

Alto district. Designed by a student of

Gustave Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame), the

wrought-iron lift has the same neo-Gothic

look, making it a delight to see, especially

when it’s lit up in the evenings.

Bairro Alto is an unconventional area, with

graffiti-splattered streets and a bohemian vibe

• traditionally it’s a haunt of artists and
  writers and has cool, alternative
  shops. We were astonished to find

Laid-back

Lisbon

straight streets a

tasked with reb

Marquis o

is the qui

100-year

seven sto

Alto distr

Gustave E

wrought-ir

look, makin

when it’s lit u

Bairro Alto

graffiti-splatt

• tradition
  write
  sh

Alfama neighbourhood

L

isbon could make a bid to be Europe’s

coolest capital city. It’s got an easy charm

and a friendly population that enjoys the

good things in life – whether that’s

partying in the cobbled alleyways of the Bairro

Alto neighbourhood or relaxing over coffee at

one of the many miradouros – or viewpoints –

scattered about the city.

Built on seven hills, Lisbon boasts panoramas

aplenty and offers quite a cardio workout to

those traversing it on foot.

It’s a city with a kind of shabby-chic

glamour that makes it feel lived-in

and loved. Apartment blocks

are encrusted with beautiful

old pastel-coloured tiles, and

graffiti lines the slopes where

the Elevador da Gloria

funicular wheezes up and

down a steep hill. Such

unpretentious sights exist

alongside the impressive statues

and grand piazzas you’d expect

from a European capital.

In order to enjoy Lisbon’s relaxed vibe, take

your time to savour the city over a coffee and

pastel de nata – the traditional melt-in-the-

mouth custard tart – or a glass of vinho verde,

the lightly sparkling white wine that makes a

perfect aperitif. Don’t try to cram it all in, but

cherry-pick sites to visit, as we did on a recent

72-hour stay. From our base, Hotel Olissippo

Saldanha – a modern business hotel just a

two-minute walk from the Saldanha metro

stop – we went exploring.

Vicki Power discovers

the Portuguese capital’s

charming, small-town vibe

Ride on one of

Lisbon’s funiculars

King Joseph I in the

Praça do Comércio

The Santa Justa

elevator from

Baixa to

Bairro Alto

‘It’s a city

with a kind of

shabby-chic

glamour that

makes it feel

lived-in and

loved’

Pictures: Getty Images; Alamy