Camper Trailer Australia – August 2019

Nuts

and

BOLTS

attached to the pads which you’ll need to reuse

when putting in the new pads (depending on

model vehicle).

Replacing the disc rotor requires dissembling

and removing of the hub assembly (modern

4WDs with auto hubs can skip this bit as the

rotor can just slide off). Using a 10mm socket

we undid the six bolts that hold the locking hub

cover, and then set the cover aside. Next we

removed the inner circlip, easily done using a

circlip tool or just a little creative ingenuity.

Then we removed the hub body’s six bolts,

along with spring washers, using a 12mm socket.

With a few enthusiastic hammer taps along the

hub’s body, we persuaded it to separate. There

are also some cone washers that will need to

be retained for reassembly. This now better

exposed the inside of the hub’s workings.

There is an odd shaped locking washer (that

prevents the nuts loosening) which needs its

tabs straightened using a screw driver. Once the

tabs were straightened we easily unscrewed

the large bearing retaining nut by hand as it

was quite loose; if you encounter a tighter one,

you can use a 54mm socket. Then we prised

out the said locking washer and undid the inner

adjustment nut using the same socket, which

was them followed with the thrush washer.

Using a 17mm socket, we undid the two bolts

supporting the brake caliper and carefully slid

the caliper just off the rotor, as there is little

brake line flexibility. Suspending the caliper we

slowly prised the whole hub/rotor assembly

away, taking care to catch the outer bearing that

fell out. Once cleared we temporarily re-bolted

the caliper in place.

Use a 17mm socket to get the two

caliper bolts off — if you can find them

Slide the caliper away and temporarily

reinstall once the hub assembly is removed

After removing the two nuts by hand, we
could really see how bad it was in here. We
were definitely right to address the issue

Taking a break. Or a brake?