Travel + Leisure Asia - 09.2019

(Greg DeLong) #1

40 SEPTEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM


DINING


extensive menu that includes
barbecue and live seafood but also
gluten-free and organic plates.
Here, the menu is lined with
choices most have had before
elsewhere in the city. Whether dim
sum, a set lunch or a la carte, these
would be considered usual Cantonese
dishes—it’s their individual quality
that sets them apart. Something as
simple as fr ied tof u w it h seven
spices, a dish that turns up in many a
steamy Hong Kong street-side
kitchen, stands out for its pop, one
that isn’t wallowing in oil. “People
are looking for healthier options. We
have a quinoa fried rice dish that
doesn’t jeopardize the taste,” the chef
says as he expla ins his moder n ta ke
on dishes he grew up with.
Run emphasizes both taste and
aesthetics through traditional dishes
with high-end ingredients, Iberico
char siu and melt-in-your-mouth
cubes of wok-fried Wagyu beef.
Food aside, as mentioned the
restaurant offers an extensive
Chinese tea menu. The tea sommelier
points out Pu’er teas that are 15, 20,
30 a nd even 50 yea rs old, but is
more than willing to make
recommendations according to
exactly what dishes you’ve ordered.

Playing off of strengths, the chef
tells me he’s exploring a tea-pairing
menu in the coming months. Then he
stops, pondering aloud whether a tea
and alcohol-infused menu might be
the way to go. This is Hong Kong,
after all, and there are a lot of palates
to win over. If there was any ever
doubt, I now know the answer to that
Cantonese greeting.

The André Fu–designed St. Regis
Hong Kong has 129 rooms and suites,
and brings the chain’s signature St.
Regis Butler and e-Butler services to
the city. L’Envol offers three-, four- and
five-course menus for HK$588,
HK$698 and HK$798 respectively.
Run has a set-lunch menu for HK$638.
marriott.com; deluxe rooms with
king beds from HK$3,704 a night.

At Run, it ’s a
case of all the tea
in Hong Kong.

Steamed
garoupa with
a spice kick.
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