TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / SEPTEMBER 2019 85
we are in danger of being sucked into a hugely pleasurable
vortex that many travelers find themselves unable—and
often unwilling—to escape.
LUCKILY, IT DOESN’T take much effort to restore a
sense of place. In Patan, one of the three great settlements in
the valley—Kathmandu and Bhaktapur being the others—
Nepal’s stew of influences is at its most heady. On an early
morning recce, I lose myself in a maze of alleys stumbling,
as if in a dream, upon artisans hammering metalwork
in dark doorways, artists painting Tibetan thangkas and
hidden Hindu temples where the relentless beating of the
madal traditional drum accompanies elderly worshippers as
they chant devotionals.
It’s incredible but intense. I am compelled to downgrade
the pace of this trip before it comes to an end. And there
are few better places to unwind near Kathmandu than at
Shivapuri Heights Cottage. Here, 1,800 meters above sea
level on the fringes of the protected Shivapuri National
Park, Englishman Steve Webster and his Nepali wife Neeru
preside over this low-key bolt-hole.
The only distractions from the incredible outlook over the
valley and the simple pleasures of reading a good book are
the presence of a fully stocked bar and the call to dinner for
one of the nightly home-cooked communal spreads.
There’s ample scope for reflection with such peace and
quiet. I had come here to the Kathmandu Valley hoping for
the best, but fearing a letdown. Twenty-odd years is a long
stretch in anyone’s book and there was always a danger
that present reality would compare unfavorably with my
idealized recall. Thankfully that turns out not to be the case.
Sure, Kathmandu Valley has changed—more cars, more
people, more dust—and I have too, but it retains an alchemy
that far transcends nostalgia. Familiar haunts retain a
GETTING THERE
Most travelers will require
a visa on arrival. Check
nepalimmigration.gov.np
for details and bring U.S.
dollars to pay the fee. Non-
stop flights to Kathmandu’s
Tribhuvan International
Airport are available from
Bangkok, Hong Kong, Kuala
Lumpur and Singapore.
WHERE TO STAY
Dwarika’s Hotel As much
a treasure trove of Newari
crafts and architecture as a
hotel, Dwarika’s is a must-
visit attraction—even for non-
guests—due to its collection
of intricate wood-carvings
and a beautiful courtyard.
Highlights include a gorgeous
outdoor pool, a meal at the
signature Nepali restaurant
Krishnarpan, and palatial
rooms adorned with wooden
furniture and traditional rugs.
dwarikas.com; rooms from
US$300.
Dwarika’s Resort Visitors
to Nepal visit the little
town of Dhulikhel, around
an hour from Kathmandu,
for its grandstand views of
the Himalayas, and stay at
Dwarika’s Resort to enjoy the
scenic splendor in the lap of
luxury. Beautiful suites, 39
in total, feature hardwood
floors, Nepali fabrics and
generous tubs for chilly days.
Activity-wise, guests can helpout in the on-site vegetable
garden, consult a resident
Ayurvedic doctor or simply
kick back by the infinity pool.
dwarikas-dhulikhel.com;
rooms from US$400.
Cosy Nepal Patan’s rich
architectural heritage is both
respected and updated by
Cosy Nepal, a French/Nepali
agency that manages several
traditional houses in the town.
Thoughtful touches abound,
from simple single rooms
to comfortable studios and
full apartments. Each option
is renovated with modern
touches, striking a balance of
old and new. cosynepal.com;
rooms from US$35.Shivapuri Heights Cottage
Only six kilometers north of
Kathmandu city center, the
resort—located well above
sea level and on the edge
of a national park—feels a
world removed from the
urban melee. Rooms feature
private balconies, polished
wooden floors and Nepalese
carpets. A central lounge is
ideal for kicking back with
a book; an outdoor terrace
and bar offer scope for
lively guest interaction and
incredible views of the valley.
shivapuricottage.com; rooms
from US$50, including daily
dinner and breakfast. — D.F.Mountain Stays to Remember
The welcoming mix of places to stay around Nepal is as varied as the country’s landscape, so take
advantage of the variety when booking your trip.mystical allure befitting of their ancient status
while fresh discoveries bring something new
to the table.
On our last day, we decide to stretch our
legs on a walk up into the National Park. It’s
a gentle hike rather than a trek really, but
isolated monasteries framed by prayer flags,
fast-flowing streams pouring down from the
mountains and the occasional sadistic incline
offer a tantalizing reminder of a previous
expedition to Annapurna Base Camp.
Clocking my nostalgia, Steve throws out an
offer. “You can carry on up to Shivapuri Peak if
you want,” he says referring to the 2,732-meter
mountain that forms the centerpiece of the
park. “But it’s bloody hard work.”
Contemplating the prospect, I look to my
companions, fully anticipating them to demur.
Unexpectedly, they agree to proceed and we
continue along and up the trail. As warned, the
going is grueling. The steep gradient tautens
every sinew in our legs and silence descends
among us as we strain for the summit. The
payoff, though, is spectacular: a grandstand
view of the white Himalayan peaks, Mount
Everest and the Annapurna range among
them. Over a week we’ve delved into the
spiritual, enjoyed the earthly and generally
witnessed how the Kathmandu Valley has
renewed itself in the face of adversity. Now
we have hit heights that none of us expected
to conquer—at least on this occasion. Up here
on the roof of the world, it seems that a can-do
attitude is infectious.