S MAGAZINE ★ 18 AUGUST 2019 31
Edited by Laura Mulley
air-conditioned minibus, we stopped off at the
prettiest bays and took in some fantastic views
across to France. At La Hougue Bie Museum,
one of the world’s 10 oldest buildings, we
crawled into a Neolithic passage grave and saw
the world’s largest Celtic coin hoard. There’s
also a chance to step into a replica Neolithic
Longhouse here, which has been built by a
team of volunteers using traditional tools and
authentic Neolithic techniques.
We continued the history theme the following
day when we ventured into the eerie Jersey
War Tunnels, which were dug deep into a
hillside by forced and slave workers, and now
tell the story of the five-year occupation.
We experienced a roller coaster of emotionswhile wandering round, but left feeling richer for
the knowledge we had gained and proud of our
neighbours for what they had overcome.
Ready for some relaxation, we headed back
to our hotel, The Club Hotel & Spa in Saint
Helier, to lounge around the outdoor pool. And
then went in search of another dining
experience. We found it at the fantastic Sumas
in Gorey on the east coast. Sitting on the
outdoor terrace surrounded by pastel-coloured
cottages with the harbour in the foreground
and Mont Orgueil Castle in the background, we
ordered lobster which had been caught that
day and decided on which Channel Island we
would conquer next...
Jennie WignallDiscover fine food and
poignant history on this
beautiful Channel Island
Jersey shores
I
f we were to tell you that one of the best
lunches we’ve ever had was at a restaurant
with no table service, a tiny menu and old
wooden picnic tables to sit at, you’d probably
think we’d lost the plot. But that’s what we
loved about Faulkner Fisheries in Jersey.
The atmosphere was provided by the sound
of the sea crashing against the rocks below
us – and the fact the food is rustled up in
a Second World War German bunker. The
freshest clams, oysters, lobster, calamari and
the meatiest prawns we’ve ever seen were
all barbecued and finished off in garlic butter.
Served with a side order of Jersey Royals,
of course.
It was in stark contrast to our snazzy dinner
the night before at the Michelin-star Bohemia
Bar & Restaurant, where we enjoyed seared
scallops and smoked eel followed by Cumbrian
lamb with black garlic. But what the fishery
lacked in finery, it more than made up for
in personality.
For my partner Gareth and I, it was our
second visit to the Channel Islands. After a
fabulous trip to Guernsey back in 2017, we
were well up for exploring the largest of the
archipelago. Jersey is just an hour’s flight from
Manchester (and considerably warmer) and
nothing’s further than 20 minutes away by car- it’s just nine miles long by five across.
With this in mind, we hired a car, which gave
us the freedom to roam at our own leisure, and
were frankly awe-struck by Jersey’s beauty.
While the green landscape and narrow country
lanes made us feel like we were in the British
Isles, the beaches were like none we’ve come
across before. With clear turquoise water and
powdery white sand, you could be anywhere in
the world – until you spot the fortifications and
towers that litter the coastline, one of the many
reminders of Jersey’s rich history.
Keen to find out more, we spent a few hours
with lawyer turned history guide Marc Yates
of Jersey Military Tours. He’s practically Jersey
royalty. Marc’s grandparents lived at Mont
Orgueil Castle during the Second World War
and were forced to hand it over to the Germans
when they arrived for the occupation in 1940.
There’s nothing he doesn’t know about the
island. Setting off in Marc’s comfortable,
Clockwise from top: Mont Orgueil Castle and Gorey Harbour at dusk; Jersey’s north coast, west
of Bouley Bay is great for walkers; and the view from the terrace at Sumas restaurant in GoreyDeluxe double rooms at The Club Hotel & Spa (01534 876500, theclubjersey.com) start at £129. Fly to Jersey from numerous UK airports in about
an hour with British Airways, easyJet and Flybe. For more on Jersey, visit jersey.com.●S