The Washington Post - 28.08.2019

(Jeff_L) #1

E2 EZ EE THE WASHINGTON POST.WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 28 , 2019


the-chart sodium reading for our
nutritional analysis, so I
substituted coconut aminos,
which have much less sodium and
also a touch of sweetness,
allowing me to also omit the
honey. If neither sodium nor
sugar is an issue for you, feel free
to return to her surely more
traditional version.
The recipe is amenable to other
substitutions and adaptations,
too: You could use broccoli or
cauliflower instead of green
beans, kale or collard greens
instead of spinach, and so on. You
could include fewer vegetables,
it’s true, but do me a favor, and
make sure to include more than
one variety. The name japchae,
after all, means “mixed
vegetables” — plural.
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Korean dish japchae. It’s easy to
put together — once you get past a
good bit of chopping in the prep,
that is. As with most stir-fries, the
work is all upfront, and once you
get everything together, the
actual cooking happens in the
flash of a pan. The pan of choice is
a wok, although a large skillet can
work, too.
This version by Marja
Vongerichten uses a garden’s
worth of produce, including tri-
color bell peppers, green beans,
snow peas, carrots, mushrooms,
edamame and spinach. And much
of the flavor comes from a quick
sauce she makes from soy sauce,
honey, garlic and sesame seeds. I
took major liberties with the
sauce because I know that a
quarter-cup of even low-sodium
soy sauce is going to cause an off-

I never met a
noodle I didn’t
like. Spaghetti,
ramen, udon, rice:
You name it, I’ll
slurp it, happily. A
favorite, especially
in the summer, is
dangmyeon,
Korean sweet-
potato noodles,
a.k.a. glass noodles, a.k.a.
cellophane noodles.
Why especially in summer?
Because these noodles, which get
their English name due to their
translucence, are super-light and
springy, and gluten-free. I can eat
a lot without feeling as weighed
down as I do by, say, pasta (as
much as I love pasta).
When stir-fried with
vegetables, they star in the


Of all the cooking
cultures that have
put their own spin
on schnitzel, this
Israeli-inspired
riff might be my
favorite. No
wonder; it comes
from a new
cookbook called
“Sababa” (Avery),
whose Tel Aviv-
based author, Adeena Sussman,
is a whiz at developing and
adapting recipes with a modern
sensibility.
Like kosher cooks in Israel
have done for decades, she pan-
fries the pounded-thin cutlets in
oil instead of butter, and uses
chicken instead of the classic
Austrian call for veal. What
makes Sussman’s recipe
particularly appealing for a
crunch fan like me is its
seasoned blend of panko and
roasted sesame seeds. The
coating stays in place, thanks to
a brief respite before the chicken
hits the pan, and it reaches a
golden brown apogee every time,
right on cue, graced with the
nutty goodness that sesame
delivers.
This is not a fry to be afraid of,
because a modest amount of oil
is needed. From my measured
testing, just a few tablespoons
are actually absorbed. This is
non-greasy schnitzel, folks!
You can buy chicken thighs
that are already boned and
skinless, but the ones we keep on
hand in the Dinner in Minutes
Pantry are bone-in, skin-on. It
takes about 5 minutes to prep
them (see the NOTE), with the
added bonus of reserving the
bones for homemade stock and
the skin for savory gribenes.
[email protected]

A schnitzel with easy, no-fear frying


Veggies, veggies, noodles, more veggies:


Don’t hold back with Korean stir-fry


PHOTOS BY TOM MCCORKLE FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; FOOD STYLING BY LISA CHERKASKY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

STACY ZARIN GOLDBERG FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; FOOD STYLING BY LISA CHERKASKY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Korean Glass Noodle


and Vegetable Stir-Fry (Japchae)


6 to 8 servings
Glass noodles (a.k.a. cellophane or dangmyeon) can be found in
Asian supermarkets and in many well-stocked grocery stores. If you
can’t find them, use thin rice vermicelli or any other favorite noodle.
Adapted from “The Kimchi Chronicles” by Marja Vongerichten
(Rodale, 2011).


Ingredients
1 pound dangmyeon (glass or
cellophane) noodles
2 tablespoons toasted sesame
oil, plus more for drizzling
^1 / 4 cup liquid aminos or
coconut aminos, or more as
needed (may substitute low-
sodium soy sauce plus 1
tablespoon honey or agave
nectar)
1 tablespoon roasted sesame
seeds
4 large garlic cloves, finely
chopped
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive
oil
4 ounces cremini mushrooms,
trimmed and sliced (1^1 / 2 cups)
1 small onion, finely chopped
(^2 / 3 cup)
3 bell peppers, preferably a mix
of red, yellow and orange,
stemmed, seeded and thinly


sliced (3^3 / 4 cups)
1 large carrot, trimmed and cut
into 1-inch matchsticks (1^1 / 2
cups)
2 cups green beans, trimmed
and halved lengthwise
1 cup snow peas, halved
lengthwise
^1 / 2 cup thawed frozen edamame
or peas
3 cups baby spinach leaves
Sriracha, for serving (optional)

Steps
Cook the noodles according to
the package directions. Drain
and drizzle with a little sesame
oil.
In a small bowl, whisk together
the aminos, sesame seeds and
half the garlic.
In a large wok or wide, deep
skillet over high heat, heat 1
tablespoon of the sesame oil

and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil.
Add the mushrooms, onion and
the remaining garlic and cook,
stirring constantly, until
browned and softened, about 4
minutes. Transfer the mush-
room mixture to a plate and
drizzle with a bit of sesame oil.
Add the remaining 1 tablespoon
of the sesame oil and 1 table-
spoon of the olive oil to the wok
and add the bell peppers and
carrot. Cook, stirring constant-
ly, until the vegetables start to
soften, about 2 minutes. Add
the green beans, snow peas and
edamame and cook until all the
vegetables are just barely
cooked through, about 2 min-
utes.
Add the reserved sesame-garlic
sauce, the noodles and spinach
and stir-fry just until the greens
wilt, 30 seconds. Taste, and add
more aminos or soy sauce, if
desired. Serve hot or at room
temperature, with Sriracha for
drizzling, if desired.
Nutrition | Per serving (based on 8): 470
calories, 12 g protein, 90 g carbohydrates, 9
g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol,
180 mg sodium, 14 g dietary fiber, 4 g sugar
Recipe tested by Joe Yonan; email questions
to [email protected]

Crispy Sesame
Schnitzel

4 servings
Serve with a green salad.
Adapted from “Sababa,” by
Adeena Sussman (Avery, 2019).

Ingredients
^1 / 2 cup plain panko bread
crumbs
^1 / 4 cup roasted sesame seeds
^3 / 4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus

more as needed
^1 / 2 teaspoon granulated garlic
(a.k.a. garlic powder)
^1 / 2 teaspoon sweet paprika
^1 / 2 teaspoon freshly ground
black pepper, plus more as
needed
^1 / 4 teaspoon ground cayenne
pepper, or more as needed
2 large eggs
^1 / 3 cup flour
4 boneless, skinless chicken
thighs (about 14 ounces total
weight, from 1^1 / 2 pounds bone-
in, skin-on chicken thighs; see
NOTE)
^1 / 2 cup vegetable oil

Steps
Combine the panko, sesame
seeds,^1 / 2 teaspoon of the salt,
the garlic powder, paprika,
black pepper and cayenne pep-
per in a shallow dish. Lightly
beat the eggs in a separate dish;
whisk together the flour and the
remaining^1 / 4 teaspoon of salt in
another dish.
Trim any excess fat from the
chicken. Season the chicken
lightly with salt and black pep-
per, plus a little more cayenne, if
desired. Working with one piece
at a time, place each thigh be-
tween two sheets of plastic
wrap and pound to an even
thickness of about^1 / 4 inch.
Coat each piece of pounded
chicken first in the flour mix-
ture, shaking off any excess;
then in the egg; and then in the
seasoned panko, pressing so
they are evenly and completely

coated. Place on a rimmed bak-
ing sheet; let them sit for 10
minutes (this will help the coat-
ing adhere during cooking).
Discard any remaining egg and
seasoned flour; you should have
used all the panko mixture.
When you are ready to fry, place
a wire rack over a rimmed bak-
ing sheet. Heat the oil until
shimmering in a heavy skillet
over medium heat.
Lay two of the coated chicken
pieces in the pan; fry for about
21 / 2 minutes, until the underside
is golden brown, then use tongs
to turn them over and cook for 1
to 2 minutes on the other side.
Transfer to the wire rack to
drain while you cook the re-
maining chicken.
Serve warm, or at room temper-
ature.
NOTE: Pull the skin off each
chicken thigh; lay flat and
freeze in plastic wrap for an-
other use, if desired. To remove
the bone, place a thigh skin/
skinned side down on a cutting
board. Use a small, sharp knife
to scrape away the flesh from
one end of the bone and along
the sides. Sever the connections
at one end of the bone and then
the other, and cut away any
remaining bits of cartilage or
joints.
Nutrition | Per serving: 380 calories, 33 g
protein, 11 g carbohydrates, 22 g fat, 4 g
saturated fat, 195 mg cholesterol, 380 mg
sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 0 g sugar
Recipe tested by Bonnie S. Benwick; email
questions to [email protected]

Bonnie


Benwick


DINNER IN


30 MINUTES


Joe Yonan


WEEKNIGHT


VEGETARIAN


White Sands Smoothie
1 serving; makes 1^1 / 2 cups
From nutritionist and cookbook author Ellie Krieger.

Ingredients
1 very ripe banana, cut into
chunks and frozen
^3 / 4 cup (1%) low-fat milk or
plant milk of choice
2 tablespoons sliced or slivered
almonds (unsalted)
1 tablespoon unsweetened
shredded coconut
^1 / 8 teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch freshly ground nutmeg

Steps
In a blender, combine the ba-
nana, milk, almonds, coconut,
vanilla extract and nutmeg and
blend until smooth. Serve right
away.
Nutrition | Per serving: 300 calories, 12 g
protein, 41 g carbohydrates, 11 g fat, 5 g
saturated fat, 5 mg cholesterol, 125 mg
sodium, 5 g dietary fiber, 26 g sugar
Recipe tested by Lisa Cherkasky; email
questions to [email protected]

If you are looking
for me in the
summertime,
chances are you’ll
find me, at some
point, on the
beach in Montauk,
Long Island, as
close to the
crashing waves as
possible. If I am
not in the water or on the white,
sandy beach, I may have
sauntered two blocks into town to
grab a bite from Joni’s Kitchen, a
hip little cafe with a relaxed surfer
attitude and a chalkboard full of
healthy menu items.
One of my go-tos there is the
aptly named White Sands
Smoothie, a frosty milkshake-
like, nourishing treat with a pale
palette of milk and banana made
“sandy” from being blended with
coconut, almonds and a fragrant
sprinkle of nutmeg. This recipe
is my version of it, so I could
bring those beachy vibes home to
enjoy even after the school year
starts up again.
[email protected]

Krieger is a registered dietitian,
nutritionist and author who hosts
public television’s “Ellie’s Real Good
Food.” She blogs and offers a weekly
newsletter at elliekrieger.com.

A comforting taste of the coast


TOM MCCORKLE FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; STYLING BY LISA CHERKASKY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Ellie


Krieger


NOURISH


To contact us: Email: [email protected] Telephone: 202-334-7575 Mail: The Washington Post,
Food, 1301 K St. NW, Washington, D.C. 20071

FOOD


The coating for the Crispy Sesame Schnitzel is a combination of
panko for texture and sesame seeds for nutty flavor.

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