delicious Australia – September 2019

(vip2019) #1

“HOWDIDYOUlikethe
flavours?”is anoddwayof
askingif onewassatisfied
witha dish,butduring
lunchat Chuuka,thebold
newculinarymashupofJapaneseand
ChinesebySokyo’sChaseKojimaandLee
HoFook’sVictorLiong,it’showtheyroll.
Chuukarestauranthonourschuka, the
termusedin Japanfora styleofJapanese
cuisinefoundin Chineserestaurants.It’s
a fusion,forwantofa betterterm,ofthe
CantoneseandJapanese,andit’snotthe
firsttimewe’veseenit playonmenusin
Australia.HamishInghamwhilechefand
co-ownerofBarH in SurryHills(nowat
Banskii)museda menuinchukastyle and
hedida damnfinejobofit too.
ButChuukais different.Housedin the
formerhomeofFlyingFishandownedby
TheStar,it sitsin theheritage-listedendof
JonesBayWharf.There’sanoutdoorbar,
a mezzanine,rawbar,privatedining,and
muralsofdragonsandkoibyartistDeepak
Munsamithatadda senseofcultural
heritage,albeitcheekily,tothespace.
OnegetsthesenseLiongandKojima
hadfunonthisprojectandthefloorstaff
seemkeentosharethepositiveenergy.
They’reenthusiastic,whichis allyoucan
askfor,really.Thedrinkslistis solid– a trip
around the globe at affordable prices, plus


sakeanda swagofcocktailsincludinga
seriesinspiredbytheChineseelements:
wood,fire,earth,metalandwater– and
no,thecocktailisn’tjustwater,it’sa mixof
SuntoryRokugin,blackteablended with
ginger,lemongrassandSichuan.
LiongandKojima’sshareplatesfeature
fineculinarytechnique,a balance of
flavoursandspot-oncookery.
Pickledsansho(Japanesepepper),
infusedsoyandcucumbersupportthe
subtlesweetnessofscallopsashimiand
savouryjoyofrawtuna.Thensilky‘Bang
Bangchicken’getsthetastebudsjumping,
servedwiththezingofyuzukoshoand
numbingjoyofSichuanchillioil,shisoand
a refreshingsalad.It’slively.SoftJapanese
milkbunsarrivetosopupglutinouschilli
misobuttersaucealloverlargeprawns
withchilli,andtheChuukamapotofuveers
offtraditionwitha vegetarianspin.Here
agedashitofu,yubaandsilkentofuwade
ina sundriedtomatomaposauce.
Dessertsarea treat.Thechewytexture
ofmochidoughthatencaseskurozato
brownsugaricecreamis a lovelytextural
journey.AlthoughLiongandKojimahave
bothmadea nameforthemselves,there
arenoegosontheplate.Rather,a
beautifulbalancethatmanifestsin good
eating.SohowdidI likethoseflavours?
Very much so. Thanks for asking.

Twoculinaryworldscollide,andtheresultsareslick,bang-on and
focused on flavour, writesAnthony Huckstep.

EASTERN FEASTS


FROM LEFT:Chuuka’soutdoorbaris the
idealwelcomeforguests;
a sampleofthefineofferings;
Victor Liong (left) and Chase Kojima.

REVIEW.


@huckstergram @anthuckstep

For more of our critics’ dining picks.

REVIEWEDONLINETHIS MONTH
Babylon,SydneyCBD
Conlan’sWineStore,PortFairy,VIC
OsteriaCoogee,Coogee,Sydney
Nour, Surry Hills, Sydney

CHUUKA

CUISINE
Chinese/Japanese
CHEFS
Chase KojimaandVictor Liong
VISIT
Suite62-64,JonesBayWharf
26-32PirramaRd,Pyrmont
OPENINGHOURS
TuesdaytoSaturday,12pm-10pm
Sunday,lunchonly
BOOKINGS
(02) 96579882
chuuka.com.au
PRICE
$$$
BYO
No

delicious.com.au

BOOKA
TABLENOWAT

52 delicious.com.au

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