Australian Gourmet Traveller – September 2019

Penfoldsinsistsitswinesstandinthemostluxuriousdiningcontext,

andeachaspectofitsMagillEstateRestaurantdégustationispresented

withextraordinaryfinesseandattentiontodetail.Thediningspaceis

idyllic–achicglass-walledpavilion,sumptuouslyappointedwithleather

chairsandblackwoodtables,withapanoramaofthevineyards.The

atmosphereiscalm,withsoft-spokenstaguidingyouthrougheach

morselandglass.It’squiteaprocession.ChefScottHugginspresents

morethan 20 tastes,startingwithingeniouseggsnacks;belugacaviar

onahotpotatocake,etherealmayonnaiseonchickenskin,andtrout

roewithchivesonacrumpet.Nextcomesacoldrollofshavedsquid,

thenarosetteofsmokedceleriacandcrispgreenapple,andsublime

lambrestedinawarmoilbaththenhibachi-grilled,accompaniedby

almondpaste,asprinklingoffenugreekandgratedbottarga.Smart

Penfoldswineselectionsaresimilarlyflawless,presentingolder

vintagesintheirprimeandideallysuitedtotheflavoursofeachdish.

Luxurysuchasthiscomesatsignificantcost,butonecan’tquibble

attheexcellenceonshowhere.

78 PenfoldRd,Magill,SA

(08) 83015551

penfolds.com.au

+ LunchFri-Satnoon-2pm;

dinnerWed-Sat

6.30pm-9.30pm

+Bookingsrecommended

+Licensed,bar

+ 5-courselunch$135;

dégustation$190

+CardsAEMCVEFT

+Privateroom

+Wheelchairfriendly

+ChefScottHuggins

10 MagillEstateRestaurant V AUSTRALIAN

ConsiderlunchatVuedeMonde.Sure,it’shardtobeatthenightview

from 55 storeyshighwiththecitysketchedoutinlights,butthere’salso

somethingtobesaidforwatchingcloudsrolltowardsyouateyelevel

whilesippingvintageDomPérignonanddivingintoexquisitelyfresh

seaurchinwithcaviarandbunyanutcreamordelicatesliversofkingfish

andavocadosandwichingwasabileafandtoppedwithpalewasabi

“snow”.NewexecutivechefHughAllenbringsayouthful(he’s24)

enthusiasmtooneofMelbourne’sgreatfine-diners,onestillembracing

thehits–thecrabsnagsonatable-topbarbecue,theliquid-nitrogen-

frozenherbandpetalpalatecleanser–whiletakingadeeperdiveinto

Australianflavours.Excellentoysters,shuckedinfrontofyouatthe

kitchenbar,areteamedwithcondimentsflavouredwithlemonmyrtle,

nativepepperandfingerlime;lambgetsthesaltbushtreatment;and

therearepetitsfoursri¢ngonclassicAustralianbiscuits,including

aDavidson’splum-flavouredIcedVovo.Serviceissuperb,asisthe

priceywinelistthat’salwaysawelcomesight,dayornight.

Level55,Rialto,

525 CollinsSt,

Melbourne,Vic

(03) 96913888

vuedemonde.com.au

+ LunchThu-Sunnoon-1pm;

dinnerdaily6pm-8.45pm

+Bookingsessential

+Licensed,bar

+Dégustations$275-$310

+CardsAEDCMCVEFT

+Privateroom

+Wheelchairfriendly

+ChefHughAllen

11 VuedeMonde V AUSTRALIAN

SpecialoccasionsandBennelonggotogether.Setwithintheconcrete

bellyofanOperaHousesail,thehusheddiningroomspotlightsIndigenous

art,brass-goldTomDixonlampsandlantern-littableswithleatherchairs,

alongsideafloor-to-ceilingharbourview.It’sastellarstageforanassured

takeoneventdiningconductedinthreesuccinctacts.Theshowmight

openwithbrownbutterplayingasanuttybackbeattolemonemulsion

accompanyingjust-cookedMoretonBaybug,thenfollowwithpull-apart

confitducklegthatreachesahighernoteamidatexturalharmonyofbrittle

skin,sweetpersimmonandpickledblackfungus.Comedessert,the

signaturepavlova,meringuesailssoaring,bordersonkitschand

cloying,butiskeptincheckbyasharppassionfruitsauce.Betterto

ordertheNeenishtart,awafer-crisppastryshellfilledwithbittersweet

chocolatecutwitharaspberryrippleandcoveredwithyin-yangicing

• asophisticatedcodaexpressedwithmirror-glazeprecision.Thehefty
  winelistleansstronglyAustralian,rangingfromrenownedshirazviognier
  tosingle-vineyardBeechworthroussanne.Serviceisconfidentand
  charming,perfectlyintunewiththewholeproduction,ensuringany
  occasionatBennelongisjustthatlittlebitextra.

SydneyOperaHouse,

BennelongPoint,Sydney,

NSW,(02) 92408000

bennelong.com.au

+ LunchFri-Sun

noon-2.15pm;dinner

Sun-Thu5.30pm-10pm,

Fri-Sat5pm-10pm

+Bookingsessential

+Licensed,bar

+ Lunch2-3courses

$115-$150;dinner

3 courses$150

+CardsAEDCMCVEFT

+Wheelchairfriendly

+ ChefsPeterGilmore

&RobCockerill

12 Bennelong V AUSTRALIAN

GOURMET TRAVELLER 97

PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID GRIFFEN
ROCKPOOL BAR & GRILL, JASON LOUCAS
VUE DE MONDE, WILLIAM MEPPEM
RESTAURANT HUBERT & NIKKI TO
BENNELONG.

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