Australian Gourmet Traveller – September 2019

Sixyearsintohisexplorationofnativeingredientswithinafine-dining

prism,JockZonfrillokeepsdevisinginnovativecombinationsatafurious

pace.HisconfidenceliftsOrana’smodestdiningroomtoshowcase

amaverickAustralia-firstphilosophythatfeedsallthesenses,from

lemonmyrtle-scentedhandtowelstoAboriginalartworksandcomfortable

Australianhardwoodfurniture,backedbyenthusiasticandengagedservice

andapatrioticrocksoundtrack.Side-steppingconventionalrules,Orana’s

18-tastedégustationexploresanythingfromrotistu­edwithflame-grilled

TommyRu­smearedwithanativejerksaucetoashotofwarmmacadamia

milkwithnativethymeoil.Interlacedbetweenseveralmust-remaindishes

• cook-your-owndamperonlemonmyrtlebranchestoafinalnoteofset
  buttermilkinstrawberryeucalyptusoil–thereareexcitingnewideas.An
  oceanblastofpipisispresentedinabrinybrothofrubysaltbushberryand
  crunchybeachsucculents.Rare’rooloinisrestedinhousekombucha,
  addingaslightlyfruity,astringentedgethatbringsgreatclaritytoflavour.
  Thewholejourneyisenlighteninganddelicious.LikeZonfrillo,Oranadiners
  continuetodiscoveranewAustralia,onebiteatatime.

Upstairs, 285 RundleSt,

Adelaide,SA

(08) 82323444

restaurantorana.com

+ LunchFrinoon-3pm;

dinnerTue-Sat6pm-10pm

+Bookingsessential

+Licensed,BYO

+ Lunchtasting

menu$130;dinner

tastingmenu$265

+CardsAEMCVEFT

+ChefJockZonfrillo

4 Orana W V AUSTRALIAN

Visceral,sensoryandsensational,Braewarrantsapilgrimageand,ideally,

anovernightstay(preferablyinoneofitsdesignersuites)toappreciate

foundersDanHunterandJulianneBagnato’sdedicationtoregionaldining.

Setinacountry-cottagegallery,therestaurant’solive-leatherseatsare

angledtoHunter’snow-famousstage,animmaculateglass-fronted

kitchenwhereambitiousdégustationsareconjuredwithimpressive

composure.Thekitchenisonlypartofthestory:acourtyardwood

ovenbakessourdoughbreadfromHunter’sfirstwheatcropandgrills

porkjowlandabalone,skeweredontwigs,tocharry,caramelrapture.

Theproperty’svegetablegardensandorchards,pluschickensandbees,

supplyyear-roundproduce.Minimumthree-hourmenustranscendpretty

gastronomy:“tacos”ofkohlrabi-wrappedprawnheadarechallenging,

sotooadessertballofrhubarbandpistachioboundwithpig’sblood.

Whimsicalcreationssuchastheicedoysteralwaysdelight,butthere

aremanystarsinthisshow,fromlushseaurchinlobesanchoredon

whole-wheat“croissants”towickedducklivercannelloniwithDavidson’s

plum.Everythinghereisarevelation,includingtheglobalwinelistof

producerswho,likeBrae,aresustainableandartisanal.

4285 CapeOtwayRd,

Birregurra,Vic

(03) 52362226

braerestaurant.com

+ LunchFri-Mon,

noon-2pm;dinner

Thu-Sun,6.30pm-8.30pm

+Bookingsessential

+Licensed

+Dégustation$275

+CardsAEMCVEFT

+Wheelchairfriendly

+ChefDanHunter

5 Brae W V AUSTRALIAN

Cutler&Coiswearingitstenyearswell.Therenovationtwoyearsago

didn’thurt.Romanticboothsfortwo,windowspunchedintothebackwall

andsleekmetalandglasspartitionsbreathednewlifeintothemoodily

litdiningroomandtransformedthebarintoasleekandsophisticated

destinationinitself.ButtherealreasonAndrewMcConnell’sfine-diner

stillfeelsfreshisthatthemenubringsarareflexibilitytothisendof

thediningspectrum.Thechoose-your-ownadventureapproacho­ers

everythingfromafinelycraftedfive-coursedégustationtoexcellent

comfortfoodintheformofdry-agedsteakbuiltfortwo(fromMcConnell’s

ownbutcherMeatsmith)withhousemustardandashavedcabbageand

fennelsaladandpairedwithaglassfromanexemplarywinelistthat

favourssmallproducersfocusedonvarietalexpression.Thefoodisclever

andprettybutneverforgetsflavour,aswithalbacorecrudosharplymatched

withwasabiandfingerlime,agedMuscovyduck–servedastwodishes:

expertlyroastedinoneinstance;bakedinapieinanother–orexquisite

persimmonvacherinwithabayleafice-cream.Service,fromateamof

well-drilledprofessionals,isamongthecity’sbest,somethingthat’salso

beensaidaboutthewholeCutlerexperienceforthelastdecade.

55-57GertrudeSt,

Fitzroy,Vic

(03) 94194888

cutlerandco.com.au

+ DinnerTue-Sat

6pm-10.30pm;

Sunnoon-10.30pm

+Bookingsessential

+Licensed,bar

+ E$28-$36M$46-$55

D$18-$19;

dégustation$170

+CardsAEMCVEFT

+Privateroom

+Wheelchairfriendly

+ ChefsAndrewMcConnell

&ColinMainds

IP 6 Cutler&Co V AUSTRALIAN

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Bestpizza

Adelaide&SA

Sunny’sPizza,Sunny’sPizza,

17 SolomonSt,Adelaide,Laneway

hangoutwithunboundenergy,

that’sseriousaboutNapoli-style

pizza.Whattoorder:#05Pizza.

LostinaForest,

1203 GreenhillRd,Uraidla,

(08) 83903444 Oldstonechurch

transformedintoacarefree

alt-wineloungeandpizzaden.

Whattoorder:Banhmipizza.

Brisbane

Tartufo 1000 AnnSt,Fortitude

Valley,(07) 38521500 Full-service

Neapolitanristorantewithits

ownwoodfiredoven,turningout

perfectredandwhitesaucepizze

Whattoorder:Thespicydiavola.

Beccofino/Juliusbeccofino.

com.au;juliuspizzeria.com.au

Apairoffamily-friendlysiblings

o­eringpared-backpizza.What

toorder:AtBeccofino,aCoppa;at

Julius,theMarinaraDeluxe.

Hobart

Local 52 MaroniRd,Berriedale,

(03) 62493573 Hand-stretched

doughthrownintoawoodfire

oven,andfun-flavouredsundaes.

Whattoorder:TheSpiceGirl.

Luma22/66KennedyDr,

Cambridge,(03) 62401875 With

propercrustandtherightamount

oftoppings,Lumaknowswhat’s

what.Whattoorder:PrawnStar.

Melbourne

Capitano 421 RathdonneSt,

Carlton,(03) 91348555 Cold-

fermenteddough,NY-style

texture,customisabletoppings.

Whattoorder:Classictomatoand

cheeseblingedwithpickledchilli.

Harley&Rose 572 BarklySt,

WestFootscray,(03) 96899752

Wood-firedsourdoughcrustwith

asatisfyingchewandcharwith

toppingsbothmodernand

classic.Whattoorder:Pipipizza

Kaprica 19 LincolnSqS,Carlton,

(03) 93471138 PietroBarbagallo

bringsano-nonsense,old-school

approachtoflavour,baseand

service.Whattoorder:Classic

NeapolitanMargherita.

Supermaxi 305 SaintGeorgesRd,

FitzroyNorth,(03) 94822828 Great

thin-crust,artisantoppings.What

toorder:Badabingwithpork

sausage,chilliandprovolone.

Sydney

BellaBrutta 135 KingSt,

Newtown,(02) 99225941 Clipped

menuofpizzastraightfromthe

oven,withallthecareyou’d

expectfromchefLukePowell.

Whattoorder:Marinarawith

add-your-ownanchovies.

DaMarioShop1/36Morley

Ave,Rosebery,(02) 96692242

Traditionalbaseswithcharred,

pillowycrustfromawoodoven

straightoutofNaples.Whatto

order:PizzaNapoletana.

Gigi 379 KingSt,Newtown,

(02) 95572224 Thisstoriedvenue

maybeall-vegan,buttheflavour

andbasesarenextlevel.What

toorder:Marinaratradizionale.

MatteoDowntown 20 BondSt,

Sydney,(02) 92412008 ThisCBD

spotfeelslikeasliceofMilanin

themiddleofSydney.Whatto

order:Tronchettopizza.

Perth

Monsterella 46 GranthamSt,

Wembley,(08) 92872949 Loud,

friendlyandBYO.Nowonder

Perthgoesga-gaforMonsterella.

Whattoorder:TheHunter.

KingSomm 13 KingWilliamSt,

BayswaterComeforcrisp-based

pizza;stayforalookatwhat’sin

stockattheon-sitewineshop.

Whattoorder:Thesausagepizza.

GOURMET TRAVELLER 99

PHOTOGRAPHY COLIN PAGE BRAE , LEWIS POTTER ORANA & MARK ROPER CUTLER & CO .

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